NEWS REPORT

OSSOPCA To Drive Organic Farming in Orissa

Orissa (Odisha) is gearing up for a major drive to promote organic cotton after the completion of certification of the Odisha State Seeds and Organic Products Certification Agency (OSSOPCA).

Balakrushna Rath, chairman of Agricultural Promotion and Investment Corporation of Orissa Ltd (Apicol) said to Business Standard recently “Our certification agency, OSSOPCA, is under the process of accreditation of the Agricultural & Processed Food Products Export Development Authority (APEDA). This will be a major milestone for getting our organic areas under certification program for better market strategy."

He also said that organic cotton cultivation has been done sucessfully with great results in the Kalahandi, Bolangir & Koraput districts of the state. There is a lot of scope for revival of spinning mills for producing the best quality of yarns for domestic as well as international markets.

Interestingly, organic farming in Orissa is a default practice in many districts due to low usage of fertilizers and pesticides by farmers, according to OSSOPCA. Farmers of districts like Koraput, Rayagada, Kandhamal, Kalahandi, Nuapada, Bolangir,Gajapati, Keonjhar and Mayurbhanja use little or no chemicals and most of the area is organic by default. The agency contends that agro-climatic conditions in are such that it supports  agricultural biodiversity and is conducive for organic agriculture, thereby offering tremendous scope for cultivation of a wide range of organic products.

OSSCA, the Odisha State Seed Certification Agency was formed in June 1977 to function as a certification agency under the Seeds Act 1966 in the state of Orissa in India. Subsequently it has been renamed as the Odisha State Seed & Organic Products Certification Agency (OSSOPCA) to act as an agency that will perform the task of organic certification in the state of Odisha through an organic certification wing called the Odisha State Organic Certification Agency(OSOCA).

In November last year, officers of OSSOPCA were trained on setting up of Organic Certification Programme including preparation of manuals, documentation, development of templates and related subjects on setting up of Organic Certification Programme in OSSOPCA by APEDA.


Photo Courtesy: OSSOPCA
To read the full story: New certification agency to boost organic farming

NEWS REPORT / GRIST

The Green Index For Apparels

Wouldn't it be really convenient for green shoppers if every piece of clothing came with a number that told how green it is? A group of apparel companies recently formed what they call ‘Sustainable Apparel Coalition’ to focus on making an innovative tool that could give a number to an item of clothi

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ng based on its sustainability.

The members of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition include apparel giants such as Adidas, Arvind Mills, C&A, Duke University, Esprit, Esquel, Marks & Spencer, Timberland, Gap Inc., Patagonia etc. These companies are planning to develop a database that would track the impact of a garment on environment at every level of production and on the basis of that, give a sustainability score to it. With the help of this score, they want to help individual apparel companies clean up their supply chain. The score would be based on a number of factors like energy efficiency, and labor practices, cotton growth, dye, and packaging.

According to the American Apparel and Footwear Association, Americans spent roughly $340 billion on clothing and shoes last year, which is about 25 percent of the global market, and virtually all of it came from somewhere else. Therefore it is not easy to study the supply chain by an individual company on its own.

Sustainable Apparel Coalition plans to focus on water use efficiency, minimization of chemical constituents of water discharges associated with manufacturing of apparel products, minimization of energy use, creation of apparel products with low carbon footprints with the help of technology among others. It will also stress on the importance of a workplace that is fair and safe.

This initiative is hoped to raise awareness among organisations, designers and those who can make the most difference: consumers. Jeffrey Swartz, the chief executive of Timberland recently said to New York Times , “This is really filling a void. The government has standards for miles per gallon on a car, but we have no real standards for clothing. This will ultimately put the power in the hands of the consumers, because the apparel industry is saying out loud, ‘We’re going to find a way to disclose to you what’s behind this purchase decision — beyond color, size and fit ”.

In an interview with Tom Philpott of Grist, Yvon Chouinard of Patagonia said, “I'm convinced that most of the damage done to the planet is done unintentionally. A lot of people don't want to intentionally be evil like that, but they just don't know. Given the choice, I think they'll make the right decisions. You get five pairs of jeans in front of you, one is a 2 [on a 1-10 sustainability scale], and one is a 10, and you zap your little iPhone on the barcode to find that out, you'll probably buy the 10. Without information, jeans are jeans, they're all the same. I think it's going to be a pretty powerful tool for consumers to use.”

To read a full report: Sustainable Apparel Coalition delivers the eco-skinny on your skinny jeans

NEWS REPORT / ECONEWS

Pants to Fight Poverty

With Fairtrade Fortnight 2011 focusing specially on cotton and the plight of cotton farmers, a lot of attention is on Fairtrade apparel industry. The event is being led by entrepreneur Ben Ramsden, founder of social enterprise 'Pants to Poverty', which makes Fairtrade cotton pants in India and ensures farmers are paid a fair price for cotton and no child labour is used.

To celebrate the launch and to show their support for Fairtrade Fortnight (28th February – 13th March), Pants to Poverty recruited over 150 students from Central St Martin’s to take to the streets of London to strut their stuff through the streets of London.

A few days ago, Pants to Poverty was also showcasing its new collection which celebrated the fifth anniversary of Fairtrade cotton at Pure Spirit fair in Lodon's Earl's Court. The new collections included new styles for women including mini shorts and the launch of a new woven collection in a pastel colour pallet and an array of rich and vibrant colours. Ben Ramsden, founder of Pants to Poverty, commented: “This is the first UK trade show we have shown at. We have been waiting a long time for a show like Pure Spirit to come along and we are very excited about how much the show are recognising and promoting ethical fashion!”

‘Pants to Poverty’ was started in the year 2005, the same year when Nelson Mandela stood in Trafalgar Square and called for a generation to rise up and ‘Make Poverty History’. Since then it has been continuosly working with farmers in India, making a difference in their lives via manufacturing organic underwear.

The cotton is sourced directly from fair-trade and organic cotton farmers in India and Pants to Poverty has developed a relationship with farmers in Vidharba, Maharashtra – an area notorious for terrible suicide rates of circa seven a day for the past 15 years.  By working with partners in India, two years ago Pants to Poverty set up a business unit owned by the farmers to produce the world’s first child labour free organic and fair-trade cotton.

Ben Ramsden says, 'Fashion can change the world. We want to show Fairtrade fashion is just as good as anything else out there and encourage retailers to sell Fairtrade cotton.

Photo Courtesy: Pants to Poverty 
To read the full story: Pants to Poverty - fairtrade underwear brand at Pure Spirit

PRESS RELEASE / PARIVARTAN AWARDS

Parivartan Awards: Driving Sustainable Change

With every passing year, resources are getting used up and becoming more scarce in the process of meeting the demands of the world’s economy. According to World Business Council for Sustainable Development, the supply of energy and material resources needed for industrial growth is expected to rise to 170% of the earth’s bio-capacity by 2040. Needless to say, sustainability is gaining paramount importance.

Parivartan (a Hindi word which means change) is a forum that aims to bring various organisations to a platform where they can discuss about how sustainability can improve business performance.

Recently, India Carbon Outlook invited nominations from firms for Parivartan 2011 Awards to recognize and showcase companies that have used innovation for making their products, processes, facilities and operations sustainable. The jury comprises of leading brands, buyers, industry players and influencers from four sectors i.e. automotive, packaged food and beverage, IT and IT enabled services and textile and apparel.

‘Parivartan 2011 Awards for Sustainability and Innovation’ would recognize and showcase companies that have, in their own innovative way, tried to make their products, processes, facilities or operations sustainable. Through Parivartan 2011 Awards, companies will have an opportunity to present unique innovations in products and services in front of an international audience and discuss sustainable and innovative business case studies with them. There would be sessions to attend and plenty of networking opportunities!

The winners of the Parivartan Awards 2011 would be announced at the Parivartan 2011 Awards Ceremony on March 24, 2011.

To read the full story: http://www.parivartanforum.in

REPORT / WWF-INDIA

Getting Better At Growing Cotton

The appetite for Cotton and cotton's own appetite for water, pesticides and fertilizers in the face of aggressive farming practices are inevitably driving cotton growing regions into degraded farm lands. Inextricably linked to cotton has been the health and financial well being of those who grow it when they faced with a crop that demands higher and higher inputs. But there was the other way, the better way and today entities such as WWF-India are working hard to change and to document the change that comes with it.

Last year, as a part of the project ‘Cotton in India - Challenges and Opportunities to Implement Better Cotton’, WWF-India developed Better Management Practices (BMPs) that would help farmers produce sustainable cotton. The Better Management Practices help farmers produce more sustainable cotton that reduce costs, increase crop yields, minimize health risks and environmental damage. These practices include reducing the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides (that lead to long-term illnesses for the farmers and their families) along with better and more efficient use of natural resources, such as water and nutrients.

These practices include:

Better Water Management Practices

Cotton is a very thirsty crop which consumes a lot more water than we would like to believe. Therefore a better method of irrigation is the need of the hour. When Appasaheb Shere, a young farmer from Jalna district in Maharashtra switched from conventional flood method of irrigation to drip irrigation for his cotton crop, little did he know about the great results he was about to see.

He says “Earlier, when I used the flood method of irrigation, I used to get 25 quintals of yield from 4.5 acres of land. But by applying drip method for the first time, last year, I doubled my production to 50 quintals”, says the happy farmer.

Better Soil Nutrient and Pest Management

Chemical pesticides can harm the soil to the extent of making it barren. It also affects the farmer’s health adversly. WWF-India promoted substitutes which include decoctions such as ‘Amrutha Jalam’, vermicompost and vitex decoction under BMPs and the farmers have a lot to say about the benefits. “I am happy to share that vermicompost is very useful in increasing soil fertility while vitex decoction in curbing the sucking pest”, says Buchi Mallaiah of Neredupalli village.

Meruga Padma, 33, of Hussainpalli village in Warangal district says“I now completely depend on organic manure ‘Amrutha Jalam’ which I prepare along with botanical extractions for pest control. I received training on how to make these preparations at the Farmer Field School (FFS) in my village. Prior to the introduction of BMPs, I would spend Rs 7,000 on pesticide sprays and fertilizers for one acre of land, but with the new methods in place, my costs are almost nil, just Rs 300! My health had deteriorated when I was using pesticide sprays, causing giddiness, faint spells, headaches and stomach upsets. But now, all these irritants have also disappeared”.

Better Incomes and Better Health

Many farmers have also said that organic manures and bio pesticides have helped them save money. “With chemical pesticides, I incurred more expenditure. Now, with BMPs, the cost of production has gone down and the yield has also improved”, says Sripati Ramkoti.

Sudhakar Muley, 40, of Harthkheda village in Jalna district, Maharashtra says, “The chemical pesticides had severe side effects. I would experience cough and cold, itching, vomiting, headaches, nausea and eye irritation. These symptoms vanished after I opted for BMPs”

Jeedimatla Mogili of Katrapalli village (AP) was persuaded to participate in one of the trial plots because the soil on his land was very poor in fertility. “I adopted all the methods recommended under BMPs, including summer deep ploughing, paired rows, border crops, organic decoctions and pheromone traps”, he recalls. “To my delight, I found that the soil quality had improved and my yield had increased by 260 per cent!

Better Support for Women

Under Better Management Practices, women were asked to use cloth bags and coat for picking and storing cotton. These are provided to the women labourers for reducing the contamination of hair and threads from polypropylene bags. Traditinally, cotton is picked and stored in the palla of the sari and tied behind the back by female farmers. This leads to injuries, scratches, sunburns etc.

The Cotton Picking Coat has 7-9 kg storage capacity and is hung on the shoulders with foam belts. While the sack evenly distributes the weight of the cotton, the half-inch foam belts reduce the strain on the shoulders.
Latabai Pandey, 30, of Kachhighati village in Maharashtra is all praises for the cotton picking coat. “I used to have weal marks on my shoulders because of the load I carried and my body used to ache throughout the day. It is amazing how a simple device like this coat has made my job so much easier and pleasant”, she says.

Photo Courtesy: WWF
To read the full story: GROWING COTTON In a better, farmer friendly way

PRESS RELEASE / FAIRTRADE FOUNDATION

UK Fairtrade Sales Cross The Billion-Pound Mark

The demand for Fairtrade products in the UK remained high last year, despite the unstable economic times. Recently, Fairtrade Fortnight 2011 was launched with the announcement that sales of Fairtrade products have increased by 40% in 2010 to an estimated retail value of £1.17bn compared with £836m in 2009, says a Fairtrade Foundation’s press release. However, the story on Fairtrade cotton has not been comforting.

Figures released by the Fairtrade Foundation reveal that every day in the UK, people are consuming some 9.3 million cups of Fairtrade tea, 6.4 million cups of Fairtrade coffee, 2.3 million chocolate bars, 530,000 cups of Fairtrade drinking chocolate and 3.1 million Fairtrade bananas. New categories are also growing with over 1 million cosmetic products using Fairtrade ingredients also being sold in 2010.

According to the Fairtrade Foundation’s Executive Director, Harriet Lamb, “It is fantastic to break the first billion. Millions of Fair Trade farmers will be cheering to know that UK shoppers and businesses still care. The challenges of global poverty and inequality are more serious than ever, especially for the farmers who grow the coffee, tea, bananas, rice or cotton on which we depend here in the UK.”

The extension of Fairtrade range into new areas such as cosmetics has opened up opportunities for more producers in the past year. Juliana Sampana, a shea nut gatherer from the Akoma Co-operative in Ghana, which has recently started selling shea butter into the UK Fairtrade cosmetics market, says: ‘The women who are from poor communities like Pusu-Namogo are blessed. Many women in our region and elsewhere have over the years worked so hard to put food on their tables for their families through farming and other odd jobs but end up with an unfair income leading to several deficiencies as a result of poor dieting. The majority of their money is spent on treating deficiency-related illnesses such as kwashiorkor, beriberi and skin rashes. With Fairtrade the women are assured of receiving a fair wage for their hard work.’ With the Fairtrade premiums they have now earned, the women have been able to provide health insurance as well as buy school uniforms for their children. Juliana is visiting the UK to speak at Fairtrade Fortnight events.

Support for Fairtrade in local communities continues to surge in the UK, where the FAIRTRADE Mark is recognised by 74% of the public . Vibrant community campaigns in more than 500 Fairtrade Towns across the country, along with thousands of schools and universities, faith groups (Christian, Muslim, Jewish, Hindu), are helping the public make a personal and local connection to Fairtrade.

Responding to that public support, major company moves to Fairtrade which have contributed to 2010 growth figures include Cadbury Dairy Milk, all Starbucks espresso-based coffee, Nestle’s four-finger KitKat, Sainsbury’s tea, coffee and sugar, Morrison’s roast and ground coffee, Tesco Finest Tea and Tate & Lyle retail sugar. And the growth is set to continue throughout 2011 with Ben & Jerry’s still rolling out their commitment to make every ingredient they use, from sugar to nuts to cocoa, Fairtrade that can be Fairtrade in the UK by the end of 2011 and Green & Black’s conversion of their entire range of chocolate bars and beverages in the UK to 100% Fairtrade, by the end of this year.

Fresh commitments for Fairtrade Fortnight 2011 include The Co-operative’s announcement to convert all commodities that can be Fairtrade to Fairtrade by 2013, starting with bananas; Topshop’s launch of a new range of Fairtrade cotton denim; Waitrose’s conversion of the majority of Waitrose Tea to Fairtrade as well as several products in the Duchy Originals range; M&S’s introduction of a new Fairtrade cotton range as part of its Indigo Green label; and the spice and herb company Schwartz’s announcement that it is launching four new Fairtrade herbs - basil, mint, marjoram and dill – later in the year.

Meanwhile, Aldi is launching its first Fairtrade product range, including bananas, coffee, tea and chocolate; and Sainsbury’s will offer a new coffee for Comic Relief from the Democratic Republic of Congo, aimed at helping farmers in a conflict-ridden land. The pioneering Fairtrade companies have also introduced new products including the first Fairtrade raisins from Afghanistan launched by Tropical Wholefoods to support small-scale farmers in the Parwan province. TKMaxx and Comic Relief are using Fairtrade certified cotton from Mali for this year’s Red Nose Day T-shirts, designed by Vivienne Westwood.

The Fairtrade Foundation has broken new ground too with the world’s first Fairtrade and Fairmined gold, from artisanal miners in Colombia, Peru and Bolivia, in partnership with the Alliance for Responsible Mining, with 21 companies already signed up to take part in the scheme.

Against a picture of overall growth, however, some product categories have struggled in the midst of recession. In particular, Fairtrade cotton sales have declined in the past year, as ethical ranges struggle to compete with a continuing trend for cheap, fast fashion.

The Fairtrade Foundation has been particularly concerned about the restriction of market opportunities for cotton farmers in West African countries such as Mali, Senegal and Cameroon. As well as a campaign targeting the European Commission on the issue of continued global cotton subsidies, campaigners are putting a special focus on cotton during Fairtrade Fortnight, including an attempt to break the record for the world’s longest - and fairest - string of cotton bunting and bring attention to the plight of West African cotton farmers.

The theme of this year’s Fairtrade Fortnight is Show Off Your Label, to encourage people to have fun as they discuss the serious values of sustainability, fairness, opportunity and empowerment that lie behind the FAIRTRADE Mark.


Photo Courtesy: http://www.fairtrade.org.uk

To read the full story: Fairtrade sales soar to well over £1bn showing the UK still cares in tough times

REPORT / PEOPLE

Fair Trade Changing Lives Of Gujarat Farmers

Organic and Fair Trade premiums are helping farmers change their lives, says Safia from People Tree. She recently visited cotton farmers in Rappa, Gujarat. These farmers are supported by Agrocel  a People Tree’s partner of 10 years.

According to Safia, in 2009-10, the organic premium paid to farmers was £20,000 and the Fair Trade premium was £67,000. Fair Trade premium has not only improved livelihoods in the area, but also supports self help groups of female farmers. According to Ms Bhanuben, Agrocel’s Project Officer, “There are 5 self help groups with 74 members. Each member joins the savings scheme and starts their own bank account, this trains women in financial literacy and helps them save and plan.”

Farmers spoke to Safia about the difficulties they had to face on a daily basis before they got the support from Agrocel. One of the farmers said,“We had to travel for the whole day just to buy basics like sugar and taking our cotton to market to receive a fair price was really hard and weakened our opportunity to negotiate a good price.”

According to farmer Amrut Charda, “We really benefit from the seed programme – seeds are good quality, are GMO free, organic and supplied to us at a fraction of the cost we paid before. Usually they cost 900 rupees and from Agrocel they cost only 30 rupees per kilo.”
Photo Courtesy: People Tree
To read the full story: Visit to Agrocel- Organic Fair Trade Cotton farmers in Gujarat, India

PRESS RELEASE / THE UNIFORM PROJECT

Shoes For The Journey To Eco-Fashion

Payless ShoeSource is supporting its eco-partner Summer Rayne Oakes in a month-long 'Uniform Project' to raise awareness for eco-fashion, says a press release.

As a part of the ‘Uniform Project’ initiated by Sheena Mathieken in 2009, Summer has designed a black dress that she will wear all the days of this month. She will style the dress with a variety of shoes and accessories from Payless, including the Zoe & Zac products that she helps be manufactured more sustain-ably.

Through this project, Summer would collect donations for a charity called ‘Water’ whose mission is to raise money to build wells for the people who do not have access to clean water and basic sanitation facilities around the globe.

To have a look at the 31 different looks of Summer in a single dress, one can visit www.theuniformproject.com. The website helps people learn more about sustainable fashion as well as donate to each participant's chosen cause.
The brand Zoe & Zac was created by Payless in April 2009. The brand was different than other shoe brands with its agenda of bringing eco-consciousness to the mainstream. It uses eco-friendly components and materials such as organic cotton and linen, environmentally preferred faux leather, suede and patent, as well as natural hemp, recycled rubber outsoles, eco-friendly EVA cushioning, and water-based glues for its shoes.

Photo Courtesy: Zoe and Zac  and The Uniform Project
To read the full story: Payless ShoeSource Supports Eco-Partner Summer Rayne Oakes in Month-Long Uniform Project to Raise Awareness for Eco-Fashion

REPORT / PEOPLE TREE

Emma Watson Unveils Her Third Fair Trade Collection

Emma Watson has arrived with her third and final collection for eco fashion label 'People Tree' this month. Emma went to Bangladesh last year with People Tree and saw the plight of workers producing fast fashion there and has been advocating eco fashion ever since.

“I designed the collection last year after I’d started university in the US. Safia, People Tree’s founder, and Misato, People Tree’s designer, came out to work with me in Rhode Island. Together we decided on all the colours, fabrics, shapes and craft skills. Most of all, we took care to design a really wearable collection that truly celebrates the traditional skills of People Tree’s Fair Trade groups around the world” says Emma Watson to People Tree magazine.

All the items of clothing under this collection are made entirely from organic and fairtrade materials. With this chic collection, Emma tries to draw the attention of people, especially people of her age towards Fairtade and its importance.

The spring/summer collaboration with People Tree is being launched with Fairtrade Fortnight, which starts February 28.

To read the full story: Emma Watson Spring Collaboration Preview

NEWS REPORT / mybangalore

Masala Tee Boutique: Serving Sustainable Tees

Masala Tee, a brand that is inspired by tea, tee and India, not only uses organic cotton to manufacture its t shirts, but also supports the cause of empowering underpreviledged Indian women and children.

Founded by two tea lover friends, Sheikha Mattar-Jacob from Singapore and Indo-French Noelline Besson the brand name Masala Tee is a play on the quintessential Indian masala tea, says a news report in mybanglore. The former came to India because her huband got posted here and the latter came only to visit the country to discover her birth place. The whole idea of this business started over a cup of tea when they met.

“Over a cuppa masala chai, we concocted and brewed the Masala Tee concept. The tee-shirt concept was brewed, frothed, spiced, sweetened and sparkled in India for the world.  The word masala refers to our diverse background and at the same time it symbolizes something fun, quirky and totally Indian,” says Sheikha to mybanglore.

The brand offers vibrant tee-shirts with screen-printed faces of women, embellished with Swarovski crystals and is truly inspired by India. Each t shirt is packed in its individual tea bag.

Wearing a Masala tee is not just about being an upper class fashionista (prices start from Rs 2000), but also about making a conscious fashion choice. Last year, in a Masala Tee Humani-tee week, the company announced that each of its tee sold would subsidize one month of education of an underpriviledged child in India. A percentage of the sale proceeds go towards various NGOs that work for the underprivileged children and women.

 To read the full story: Masala Tee: Eco-friendly designer wear from 'Tee Wallahs'

PRESS RELEASE / BENETTON

One United Color Is Green

Six hundred fewer tons of plastic in the environment in 2011: this is the green result that Benetton Group will achieve by introducing innovative, lightweight liquid wood clothes hangers – 100% biodegradable and recyclable – in place of the plastic hangers usually used to display garments. The eco-hangers, developed in partnership with the Fraunhofer-Institut für Chemische Technologie in Pfinztal-Berghausen (Germany), will gradually replace their plastic predecessors throughout the worldwide network of Benetton stores, says a Benetton Press Release.

The liquid wood hangers are just part of a far broader eco-sustainable business plan launched by Benetton in a context of attention to social issues. Benetton’s green journey includes two other tangible environmental sustainability programmes, involving organic cotton garments and eco-friendly paper shopping bags.

In the Benetton children’s collections, organic cotton already accounts for over 30% of all cotton apparel, and with the spring-summer 2011 collection, organic cotton garments will reach a total of 13 million across the Group’s various brands. These products are all certified according to the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) ethical and environmental criteria, a worldwide benchmark that guarantees adherence to key organic standards in fibre production.

Read the Press Release

NEWS REPORT / CHRISTIAN SCIENCE MONITOR

Pratibha Syntex: A Profile In Sustainable Textile Making

While India continues to be the top organic cotton producing nation for the third straight year, the key to sustainable textiles will be the way in which textile manufacturers adapt to the needs of not merely growing cotton but also processing and manufacturing. A fair number of Indian companies are today showing the way, none more so than Pratibha Syntex which started its organic - and sustainable manufacturing journey -- before the turn of the Century.

"Where the industry is today is not really sustainable for the long term," says Shreyaskar Chaudhary, chief executive of Pratibha Syntex, a textile manufacturer based outside Indore, India, talking to The Christian Science Monitor.

Writing in the The Christian Science Monitor, Michael Benanav says, "with something of an "if you build it, they will come" attitude, Mr Chaudhary has steered Pratibha toward the leading edge of eco-friendly textile production."

Pratibha began making clothes with organic cotton in 1999. Initially, the company couldn't find enough organic farms growing cotton in central India to supply its factories and had to convince conventional cotton farmers to change their growing methods.

Pratibha provided seeds, cultivation instruction, and a guarantee of fair-trade prices for their crops. Today, says the report, Pratibha has a network of 28,000 organic cotton growers across the central states of Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, and Orissa.

Within the factories themselves, Pratibha has invested some $100 million in sustainable technologies over the past three years. Thanks to innovative salt-free, low-impact dyes used on all material they produce, 92 percent of their manufacturing waste water can be reclaimed and reused. Pratibha meets 90 percent of its water needs by using water recycling and rainwater harvesting technologies, says the report.

The Vasudha Project is an organic farming program run by Pratibha Syntex to "grow clean and eco-friendly cotton, to produce a clean cotton garment, spread environmental sensibilities amongst people, generate direct and indirect employment and ensure farmers' welfare." The Vasudha Project covers 125,000 acres and touches the lives of thousands of farmers, their families and their communities. Pratibha has dedicated a full-time team of experts to train the farmers on farming organically, to research seed varieties and develop more effective farming techniques, and to monitor farmers to ensure that they are meeting organic certification requirements.
Read the full story in The Christian Science Monitor: Trendy threads from waste
Additional information and photos: Pratibha Syntex

NEWS REPORT / GUARDIAN

BCI Brings Good Health To Pakistan's Cotton Farmers

Better Cotton Initiative's work in Pakistan is turning up results at the ground level. Simple ways to protect people working in cotton fields seem to be touching a chord as men and women learn to minimize the impact of pesticides. And the learning has come from training programs being organized by Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) which has companies such as Ikea and H&M as its commercial partners while the training is organized by WWF, Oxfam and local civil society organizations in Pakistan. BCI is a global programme made up of producers, international retailers and not-for-profit groups.

There are currently 3 BCI projects working towards growing Better Cotton in Pakistan. WWF Pakistan is BCI implementing partner in Pakistan.

Writing from Bahawalpur for the Guardian Weekly, Rina Saheed Khan says that in the past five years, WWF- Pakistan and its local partner, the Kissan Welfare Association (KWA), have conducted hundreds of training sessions, known as farmer field schools, for small farmers in the area. The report says that since the field schools were launched six years ago, farmers have reduced water and pesticide use by 75 per cent while increasing their revenue by 70 per cent due to a combination of savings on lower use of pesticides and fertilizers and better growing practices.

What started as a small NGO project run by WWF-Pakistan has now become a successful business model. By December 2011, almost 50,000 metric tonnes of cotton had been grown and processed in accordance with BCI standards.

Photo Courtesy: BCI. Farmers in a Cotton Field in Pakistan

Read the Guardian Article: "Pakistan's cotton farmers reap health benefits from using less pesticide"

NEWS REPORT / FIBRE2FASHION

Saving Wildlife

Do U Speak Green’ an eco-friendly clothing brand promoted by the Shishir Goenka, has been credited as India’s first eco-friendly webstore of an eponymous name, says a news report in fibres2fashion. It uses only hand picked organically grown cotton which is dyed using environmentally safe natural dyes.

When fibre2fashion asked Shishir Goenka how he got the idea to launch this brand, he said, “Our inspiration for ‘Do U Speak Green’ came about due to the absence of smart looking clothing for the nature lover & also absence of organic clothing in India. Most importantly, I have a passion for wildlife & helping preserve our natural environment, hence the decision to contribute 10 percent of sales for the environment.”

‘Do U Speak Green’ also launched its new collection – ‘Stories of the Wild’. The collection with its hand printed images of wild animals is inspired by protection, conservation and respect for wildlife. ‘Stories of the Wild’ is created with organic cotton and bamboo fiber and only natural dyes and prints have been used.

Talking about the challenges, he said that in India, online sales still have a long way to go. Besides, people are not informed. They are not many people who are aware of the importance of organic clothing. Therefore a video showing how the cultivation of conventional cotton is killing farmers and damaging environment has been put up on the website.

To read the full story: Do U Speak Green' - Clothing with passion for environment

PRESS RELEASE / H&M

H&M Introduces Conscious Collection

This April as part of the focus on sustainability H&M will introduce the Conscious Collection – The collection which is for women, men and children is made from enviromentally – adapted and greener materials such as organic cotton, Tencel® and recycled polyester. H&M’s designers have been inspired by different shades of white. The Conscious Collection will be on sale in all H&M stores from 14th April.

“It’s not just about organic cotton any more, the possibilities for creating a complete fashion statement with eco smarter materials are huge now. By designing recurring Conscious Collections we have the opportunity to show in a variety of ways what’s possible using more sustainable fabrics,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M Head of design. “Shades of white are the season’s biggest fashion trend and it feels right for this collection. White creates a romantic feeling with lace and Broderie Anglaise, but is also the basic colour in a sporty, relaxed style and in a preppy tailored look for men.”

Womenswear is inspired by an updated romantic style in which blouses, tunics and T-shirts with Broderie Anglaise are a key trend. Tiered dresses are perfect for day or more dramatic Grecian gowns for night. Long floaty skirts are key as are cut-off shorts. The collection also includes the perfect white blazer and pleated trousers for a more minimalist look as well as Broderie Anglaise and lace lingerie.

Read the Press Release: Conscious Collection

Photo Courtesy: H&M

NEWS REPORT / INDIAN EXPRESS

Indian Origin Designers Turn to Eco Fashion

Following the footsteps of international fashion designers, Indian origin designers from the US, Canada and UK designers too are standing up for the cause of eco fashion, says a news report in Indian Express. A few of them are playing significant roles.

Swati Argade, USA

This Indian American designer uses hand woven fabrics and has a signature style of mixing ethnic and bohemian aesthetics that is transformed into an urbane looking collection. She chooses fabrics and dyes consciously keeping sustainability as a priority.

Swati also goes for recycling, re-purposing and upcycling, but firmly believes that the design is paramount and there should be no excuse to compromise on it. Last year, she launched a collection of coats made from recycled bottles and organic cotton under her ‘Bhoomki’ collection. She says, "These coats will have the lowest carbon footprint vis-a-vis competition in America."

Karishma Shahani, UK

She is a London College of Fashion graduate and is working to evolve her sustainable fashion label rooted in traditional arts and crafts.  She is also promoting traditional Indian crafts by converting waste material into a contemporary textile line for a high end home furnishing house.

For her final year collection at London College of Fashion, she came up with a collection called ‘Yatra’. It was a colourful collection for which Karishma got an artisan from India to dip-dye natural fabrics like cotton, silk, linen, and muslin using plants from his local market. She is also collaborating with Amy Sol, an American artist, in a women's empowerment project rooted in a weavers' village in Madhya Pradesh.

Sheena Matheiken, USA

Sheena, who was born in Ireland and raised in India and is famous for her ‘Uniform Project’, tries to promote re-use and ethical fashion. She hopes her efforts would encourage smart designers to launch ethical collections, with support from informed consumers. Sheena adds, "It would make sustainability the norm rather than the exception."

She says to Indian Express,”The Uniform Project was born out of a desire to do something creative that was also consequential. We are now a social enterprise that converges ethical fashion and philanthropy, challenging women to simplify their wardrobes without compromising on expression and style."

She took the challenge of wearing one dress for 365 days. She used to wear the same dress differently (sometimes even wearing it inside out!), with different accessories and it looked different everyday. It turned out to be a huge success with people getting inspired and Sheena raising funds for educating kids of Akanksha Foundation.

To read the full story:  Indian origin designers go green

Photo Courtesy: http://www.swatiargade.com/

PRESS RELEASE / ORGANIC TRADE ASSOCIATION

2010 US Organic Cotton Planting Highest In A Decade

2010 plantings of US organic cotton were the highest since year 2000, says preliminary data collected by the Organic Trade Association (OTA) in a survey funded by Cotton Incorporated.

Growers of organic cotton in the US increased plantings of organic cotton acreage by 12 per cent in 2010 over that planted in 2009, according to preliminary data collected by the Organic Trade Association (OTA) in a survey funded by Cotton Incorporated.

Analysis of available data collected by an OTA survey of US organic cotton producers and incorporating additional data from the Texas Organic Cotton Marketing Cooperative (TOCMC) put planted acres for 2010 at 11,827 acres, up from an estimated 10,521 acres planted in 2009. The 2010 number is the highest since 2000, when US farmers planted 13,596 acres to organic cotton.

Although survey data show that planting has increased each year since 2003, overall cotton acreage is 15 percent lower than in 2000 and 52 percent below the high of 24,625 acres planted in 1995.

The 2009 and Preliminary 2010 US Organic Cotton Production & Marketing Trends report produced by OTA as a result of the analysis estimates that approximately 9,321 acres of organic cotton were harvested in the United States in 2009 and increased to approximately 11,262 acres in 2010.

Meanwhile, bale production increased eight percent between 2001 (the earliest available bale data) and 2009, to reach 10,731 bales produced in 2009. Of these, 10,569 bales were upland cotton, and the remaining 72 bales were pima cotton. The number of bales produced in 2010 is not yet available. Because acreage data from the Texas Organic Cotton Marketing Cooperative (TOCMC) were not available before 2007, earlier bale data, which do include TOCMC tallies, are likely the most accurate reflection of historical production trends.

To read the full release: 2010 plantings of U.S. organic cotton highest since 2000

NEWS REPORT / WORKING WATERFRONT

Cotton: The Importance of Asking Questions

How many consumers ask questions before buying an item of clothing? How many producers ask questions while purchasing cotton for their textile companies? Considering the impact of cotton cultivation on the earth and cotton farmers, a lot of important factors should be dwelled upon.

Recently, Yvon Chouinard, the founder of Patagonia clothing company stressed on the importance of asking questions related to cotton at the Seafood Choices Alliance Seafood Summit in Vancouver B.C.

It all started in the early ‘90s when Yvon asked where Patagonia's cotton came from and what was known about it. It turned out, not much was known. Then he explained how his company soon learned that the cotton used in their clothing was actually 80 percent fiber and 20 percent chemicals. Patagonia staff also came to know that 25 percent of all the pesticides in the world are sprayed on cotton, a crop that represents 3 percent of agricultural production.

Soon, Yvon and others started coming face to face with many facts as they visited the places where the company was buying their cotton from. They found contaminated valleys and basins and communities that had cancer rates that were 10 percent higher than the national average. The cotton seed oil byproduct and the cotton dyes were also discovered as toxic. The source of the dying facilities they were was  killing rivers in Europe.

After many initial hiccups, it took some years for Patagonia to move to entirely organic cotton clothes. It took some questions to be answered and some alternate solutions to be found out. It seemed a rather unusual topic to discuss at a Seafood Summit till Yvon told the audience of seafood industry groups and NGOs to ask the same questions about seafood industry and try to make a difference.

To read the full story: Apparel and Seafood: Paving the road to values-based living with questions

NEWS REPORT / BRISTOL247

Fairtrade Fortnight At Bristol On March 5

After the success of the 2009 and 2010 Fairwear Fashion shows, Bristol is all set to celebrate Fairtrade Fortnight 2011 on March 5 at The Galleries shopping centre, says a report in bristol247.com.

Last year, Emma Watson’s creation that she had created in conjunction with Fairtrade design brand, People Tree, debuted at the Fairwear Fashion show. Wombat, Spunky, Bishopton Trading Company, FiveG at Debenhams, Ethics Girls, Co-operative were among the various fashion houses that showcased their ethical collections.

This year, the event is sponsored by Green Capital and FiveG at Debenhams which sells Fairtrade cotton clothing for men. The event has been organised by Bristol Fairtrade Network in partnership between the Soil Association and the University of the West of England (UWE).

To read the full story: Bristol fashion: Celebrating Fairtrade Fortnight on the catwalk

Photo Courtesy: Fairwear 2011

PRESS RELEASE / ANVIL KNITWEAR

Anvil Knitwear Joins Hands with CMiA


After making a commitment to double the production of organic cotton in the US a few months ago, Anvil Knitwear has now joined hands with the Cotton Made in Africa initiative.

Cotton Made in Africa is an initiative by the ‘Aid by Trade Foundation’, established in 2005. The purpose of this foundation is to remove poverty and promote economic development through sustainable development projects.

Aid by Trade Foundation is expanding the Demand Alliance for its Cotton Made in Africa (CMiA) initiative to the USA. The idea is to invite companies to buy CMiA cotton for the production of their goods and hence increase the demand for it. Anvil is one of the biggest consumer of sustainable cotton and its joining the CMiA initiative would ensure an increased demand of sustainably produced cotton and hence help African farmers fight poverty.

Anthony Corsano, Chief Executive Officer of Anvil Knitwear explains the widening of the company's sustainability strategy: “Cotton made in Africa is another source of sustainable fiber for Anvil. It is rain fed, utilizes principles of soil conservation, reduces pesticides, and incorporates important ILO labor principles. We also hope our purchases help African small-holder farmers improve their own living standards.”

West African countries of Benin, Burkina Faso, Zambia and Mozambique are covered under the CmiA project. The initiative provides training to cotton farmers on how to use efficient methods of cultivation and make judicious use of natural resources.

CMiA would continue to build its Demand Alliance of international textile companies. The Alliance currently includes over twenty textile major companies.

To read the full story: Anvil Knitwear Becomes First US-based Company to Join Cotton made in Africa Initiative 

NEWS REPORT /ECOTEXTILE

BCI Expands To New Regions

With its goal of sustainable cotton being traded on the global commodities market, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is looking to expand into growing regions such as China, Turkey and the USA.

During the implementation phase (2010-2012), the BCI is mainly focussing on four regions: Brazil, India, Pakistan and West & Central Africa. However, BCI is an open and inclusive multi-stakeholder initiative and is keen to see how it can help make cotton cultivation sustainable beyond their focus regions.

The BCI and Solidaridad have already signed a consultation agreement for China. At the end of 2010, the BCI Council confirmed that the 'Procedures for consulting on and establishing the Better Cotton System' in China have been complied with. A successful multi-stakeholder workshop was held in Beijing in November 2010.

With all these efforts, the coming years should see a growth of sustainable cotton farming practice in China. Funding is currently being sought to support this work.

BCI's vision is to develop a market for ‘Better Cotton’. It strives to bring long-term benefits for the environment by reducing the use of synthetic fertyilizers and farmers by helping them increase their incomes.

Guido Verijke, IKEA’s Global Business Leader said to Ecotextile News, “We are looking to develop projects in China, Turkey and the USA to grow production volumes. This is because for Better Cotton to trade as a commodity, we need to reach more than one million tonnes per annum. This will ensure that long forward commitments are possible which secures the farmers income and also ensures that less water, pesticides and fertilisers are being used.”

To read the full story: BCI Targets New Cotton Regions

NEWS REPORT / ONE WORLD SOUTH ASIA

Chetna, Japanese Companies Help Farmers 'Grow Better, Trade Better, Profit Better'

Indian organic cotton farmers have a reason to smile as Japanese catalog retailer, Felissimo Corporation, is launching a ready-to-wear line that is made from 100 per cent fair trade organic cotton exported from India, says a report in One World South Asia.

Felissimo is also supporting the project called 'The Peace by Peace Cotton', which was started in 2010 in collaboration between Felissimo Corporation, Chetna Organic and Fair Trade Cotton Intervention Program. Its aim was to promote organic farming and fair trade in India by helping farmers go back to nature to 'grow better, trade better, and profit better.'

Under the Peace by Peace Cotton intervention, Felissimo is not only helping farmers to go organic but is also helping them educate their children by awarding scholarships to meritorious and needy students, and encouraging their enrollment in schools.

The program started in 2010. So far, Felissimo has assisted 1317 farmer households in 10 villages in Golamunda and Bhawanipatna clusters in Kalahandi to switch to organic cultivation.

Tatsuya Kasai, Manager, Felissimo says, “It is the buyer in Japan who supports organic, who is actually funding the program. We only try to inform them how their purchase of organic contributes to a larger cause in India, and it is this advocacy that brings in more consumer support to Peace by Peace Cotton.”

Photo & Image courtesy: Chetna Organic and Felissimo

To read the full story: Fashionably conscious: Japanese consumers help support cotton farmers in India

POINT OF VIEW  / PESTICIDE ACTION NETWORK

The Fix For Africa's Food vs Cash Crop Dilemma

Africa has been growing cotton for a long time and it supplies over 10 per cent of the world’s cotton. But the question is that when a large part of the African population are starving, should they be growing cash crops (such as cotton) instead of food crops and is it ethical to buy that cotton from Africa? Or should African farmers grow food for themselves instead of growing cotton for the world?

In West Africa, conventional cotton farming not only harms the environment because of use of excessive harmful pesticides and fertilizers, it also leads to contamination in food crops that are sometime fatal.  It also gives the farmers meagre incomes which makes it difficult to meet their family needs.

According to a Pan UK’s short guide ‘Can Organic Cotton Feed Africa’, in 2002-2003 in Senegal’s Velingara region, a major cotton growing zone, 82 per cent of households in Nemataba village were hardly able to meet their daily food needs. Prices of synthetic fertilizers were rising and that of cotton was decreasing (as subsidized cotton from China and US flooded the market). African farmers were finding it hard to make ends meet.

The guide suggests that with careful planning and by practicing crop rotation, organic cotton cultivation can help African farmers to bring the food crisis to an end.

Organic farming is not just about leaving out chemical fertilizers and pesticides. It is also about maintaining a balanced ecosystem that leaves the soil enriched for other crops. Crop rotation is an important aspect of organic cultivation. Farmers in Senegal for example, practice one of five different crop rotations across their fields. In the first year they grow peanut followed by cereals in the second and third year and cotton in year 4. The fields are left uncultivated in the fifth year for the soil to rest.

Consequently, organic cotton allows African farmers to produce more food crops and hence helps them contribute to their food security. Selling organic cotton also allows farmers to earn more money, enabling them to educate their children, buy tools for their fields and lead better lives.

To read the full story: Can Organic Cotton Feed Africa

FEATURE / VEDANTA RESOURCES

Cotton's Second Coming in Lanjigarh, Orissa

Barren land in Lanjigargh, Orissa before Organic Cotton cultivation (left); Organic Cotton farm post VAL support (right)

Vedanta Aluminum Ltd. (VAL) and Natural Organic Farm, an NGO, has implemented a project for organic cotton cultivation called Project Jaibik in Lanjigarh, Orissa.  Earlier, the cotton that was growing in Lanjigarh was not of high quality and therefore the yield was not good. VAL provided that much needed help to the farmers to increase the productivity of their farmlands in a sustainable manner.

VAL’s project was aimed at facilitating cotton growth organically. The farmers were trained on how to develop organic manure and hence not damage the soil by using pesticides and other fertilizers. VAL also played an important role in setting up the market chain that could generate an assured return for the cotton farmers. 

Cotton plants are prone to pests and at times the farmers in Lanjigarh lost their entire investment due to pest attacks. With Vedanta’s help the farmers insured the crops with Agricultural Insurance Company. The farmers are now expecting an income of Rs 10,000 per acre of land compared to their previous earnings of Rs 4000 per acre of land.

 “In Lanjigarh, Vedanta has achieved the desired objectives. Along with Natural Organic Farm, Vedanta has been instrumental in raising organic cotton in 219 acres of land with 92 farmers in 8 villages of Lanjigarh Block and has also been instrumental in insuring 178.96 acres land of 78 farmers,” says Gurdeep Chabra, Director, Natural Organic Farm Kesinga.

To read the full story: Vedanta

PRESS RELEASE / TEXTILE EXCHANGE

India Tops Organic Cotton farming with 

80% Of Global Production

India remained the top producing nation in 2009‐10 for the third straight year, growing over 80 percent of the organic cotton produced globally and increasing its production of the fiber by 37 percent over 2009‐2010, according to the fifth annual Organic Farm and Fiber report by Textile Exchange (“the Exchange”), the leading global organic cotton and sustainable textiles non‐profit organization formerly known as Organic Exchange.

Overall, despite the recession, organic cotton continued its steady growth owing to high manufacturer demand, in 2009-2010, says the Organic Farm and Fiber report.

According to the report, production of organic cotton rose up to 15 per cent from 209,950 metric tonnes (MT) in 2008-09 to 241,276 MT (just over 1.1 million bales) grown on 461,000 hectares (1.14 million acres) in 2009-2010.

Organic cotton now represents 1.1 per cent of global cotton production. It has witnessed a 539 per cent increase in production in the last four years since 2005-06, when only 37,000 MT was produced in 22 countries. The number of organic farmers has risen to 274,000 with recent addition from Tajikistan. Textile Exchange anticipates similar strong growth in 2011.

Following India in production are, Syria, Turkey, China, United States, Tanzania, Uganda, Peru, Egypt, Mali, Pakistan, Burkina Faso, Israel, Benin, Paraguay, Greece, Tajikistan, Senegal, Nicaragua, South Africa, Brazil, and Zambia.

According to LaRhea Pepper, Textile Exchange Senior Director, “We will see market growth continue at a minimum of 20 percent per annum with stronger growth of 40 percent or more in markets and programs that have both strong commitment and corporate support; especially when brands have made strong linkages for stable supplies of organic fiber. Value chain relations are now more important than ever. Continued growth is expected in 2011 due both to continued support and greater awareness on the part of consumers as well as the strong commitments from key brands and retailers to increase and expand their organic and sustainable textile programs.Manufacturers, retailers and consumers, and most importantly, farmers, all signaled their continued interest in supporting organic cotton production and the risks that came with it despite the recession."

Press Release: Global Organic Cotton Production Up 15% Despite Recession in 2009-10, New Textile Exchange Report Shows