Tuesday, November 30, 2010

NEWS REPORT / ECOUTERRE

Saving Water with Every Pair of Jeans


There is much talk about how much water is used in producing a piece of clothing. A single T Shirt or a pair of jeans uses hundreds of gallons of water. Waking up to these facts, the news that leading jeanswear and accessories brand, Levis Strauss would be launching its range of Waterless jeans in January 2011 is like a breeze of fresh air. According to a report in Ecouterre, Levis claims that this H2O sipping collection uses an average of 28- 96 per cent less water.

During the production of a regular pair of jeans, the garment goes through 3-10 spins, using approximately 42 litres of water in the finishing process. The production of the new Waterless jeans involves only a single wet process. On top of that ozone processing is used for garment washing and stone wash is used to remove water.

“What’s different about the Waterless collection is that we’re still using the same materials and techniques to create finishes for our jeans but we’ve substantially reduced water’s role in the equation,” says Carl Chiara, director of brand concepts at Levi’s. “Sometimes, the way to achieve a more sustainable design is to rethink a traditional process and find a way to do it better.”

According to Levis, over 1.5 million pairs of Waterless jeans will be made available next spring which means there would be a combined savings of 16 million liters of water.

“We challenged ourselves to operate at the intersection of style and sustainability. These Waterless jeans have great styles and finishes, but are made with a lot less water,” said Erik Joule, Senior Vice President of Merchandising and Design of the Levi’s brand. “

The company also launched the “Care Tag for Our Planet” campaign, changing the product care tags in Levis jeans to include instructions about ways consumers can reduce the environmental impact of their clothes by washing less, washing in cold water, line drying and donating the clothes when no longer needed.

To read the full story: Levi’s Debuts Waterless Jeans That Use Up to 96% Less Water
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Wednesday, November 24, 2010

NEWSLETTER / ORGANIC EXCHANGE

Organic Cotton Changing Lives in Turkey

Turkey is emerging as a country where organic cotton industry is flourishing and changing lives. For example, Sanko Textiles, based in Gaziantep is the largest organic cotton yarn and organic cotton fabric producer in the world. Sanko has been involved in organic cotton textiles for more than 10 years now. It has probably the most advanced and sophisticated spinning machines in the world!

Sanko has worked with world’s largest brands, hence promoting the importance of using organic cotton products and its benefits for the environment and human health. Sanko’s mission states “a brighter future takes every responsibility to improve the sustainability of the environment”. Their relationship with Mavideniz is bringing this vision to reality.

Turkey has seen a lot of development and investment in infrastructure, roads, city expansion and the encouragement of industry in the south west of Turkey in the last few years. According to Organic Exchange, life is certainly slower here but the enthusiasm for organic is inspiring.

Taking a break from Sanko, on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey there is a fertile region called Izmir. Cotton has been grown here for centuries and it is recognized as producing some of the finest quality cotton in the world. Izmir is home to the family owned textile company Egedeniz.

Egedeniz is the first certified organic textile company in Turkey and sells organic cotton at most stages of processing, as fiber, yarns, knitted and woven fabrics, and final garments.

All Egedeniz’s organic cotton production is certified by Control Union which ensures that all agricultural practices are in accordance with European Union Regulations. In addition, all processes right up to the end product are in accordance with the rules of the Sustainable Textile Standards of Control Union and GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards). Egedeniz follow the 3Q system through all stages; Social Quality, Product Quality and Service Quality.

To read the full story: Organic Exchange Monthly Farm Bulletin
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Saturday, November 20, 2010

NEWS REPORT / JUSTMEANS

Shared Talent India: Connecting Artisans Buyers, and Suppliers

India is one of the most diverse and culturally rich countries of the world producing a wide range of raw materials for textile industry. Be it cashmere or khadi or silk, India has been producing high quality textile material for domestic consumption and export for long.

According to a news report by Justmeans, more than 40% of fashion in the UK comes from India. And with this in mind, The Center for Sustainable Fashion (CSF) at London College of Fashion has launched Shared Talent India, to help designers and buyers source sustainable fabrics in India by connecting them directly with suppliers.

Shared Talent India is a partnership between the Defra led Sustainable Clothing Roadmap and the Indian Government under the UK: India Sustainable Development Dialogue. It aims to bring skilled artisans, suppliers and buyers together from all over the world. It also aims to be a comprehensive resource for skills; from weaving to embroidery and materials, from cotton to silk and cashmere.

The Shared Talent website can put buyers in touch with a supplier database that features organizations focused on developing a sustainable textile sector. Many of the suppliers themselves are innovative businesses that offer a forum for the development of traditional skills whilst combating environmental and social issues in the textile sector.

To be a supplier, one must meet several criteria when sourcing and supplying materials for fashion, whether production is on a local or global scale according to the project. Many designers from Marks & Spencer's, Accessorize etc have sourced from Shared Talent and this has increased the profile of the project.

The Shared Talent India website is a dedicated online space for discussing key issues relating to sustainable sourcing in the subcontinent. With the initiative, it can be hoped to get together more designers, suppliers and buyers in the future to increase the profile of sustainable fashion as well as to improve the lives of artisans.

Photo Courtesy: Shared Talent India
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Friday, November 12, 2010

NEWS REPORT / EUREKALERT

Insect Birth Control Strategy To Zap Cotton Pests

organic cotton
Using pests as part of an insect birth control program helps to get rid of them, UA researchers find. A new approach that combines the planting of pest-resistant cotton and releasing large numbers of sterile moths has virtually eliminated of the world's most destructive cotton pests from Arizona.

The novel control strategy, published in the November 7 advance online publication of the journal Nature Biotechnology, has allowed growers to maintain high cotton yields without spraying insecticides to control pink bollworm.

"We are running the pesticide treadmill in reverse," said Bruce Tabashnik, department head of entomology in the UA's College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. "Our new approach has resulted in huge environmental gains. We are using cutting-edge technology to create sustainable cotton farming practices."

The new approach is part of a multi-pronged team effort to eradicate pink bollworm from the southwestern US and Mexico, in which Tabashnik and his coauthors play a leading role.

Caterpillars of the pink bollworm (Pectinophora gossypiella) are one of the most detrimental pests to cotton production worldwide. First detected in the US in 1917, this invasive insect species wreaked havoc on Arizona's cotton growing industry, with larvae infesting as many as every other cotton boll (the fruit capsule containing the precious threads).
          
The eradication program staff reared large numbers of pink bollworms, sterilized them, and released the sterile moths into cotton fields where they could block reproduction of the wild insects.

"When a sterile moth mates with a fertile wild moth, the progeny won't be fertile," Tabashnik said. "The sterile insects soak up the reproductive potential of the wild population. If you have a high enough ratio of sterile to wild moths, you can drive the reproduction of the wild population to zero."

A limitation of the sterile release strategy is that extremely large numbers of sterile insects can be necessary to block reproduction of the wild population, according to Tabashnik. "It becomes a question of logistics: Can you deliver enough sterile insects to overwhelm the wild population?"

Since the eradication program began in Arizona in 2006, pink bollworm populations have declined dramatically. In 2009, only two pink bollworm larvae were found in 16,600 bolls of non-Bt cotton screened across the state. From 2005 to 2009, the pink bollworm infestation rate dropped by 99.9 percent. Along with the decline, insecticide sprays fell to historic lows. Whereas Arizona cotton growers lost $18 million per year to pink bollworm management between 1990 and 1995, that cost plummeted to an average of $172,000 per year between 2006 and 2009.

Compared with 1995, Arizona growers' insecticide use against all cotton pests, including those not killed by Bt cotton, decreased by 88 percent, saving $200 million between 1996 and 2009.

To test the idea of delaying resistance with sterile insect releases, the researchers conducted computer simulations and analyzed more than a decade of field data from before and after deployment of this strategy statewide in Arizona.

The eradication program and associated research is a partnership among the growers, their organizations, the USDA and the UA, including Peter Ellsworth of the UA's Cooperative Extension Service.

"This has been a team effort from the get-go, with the growers essentially one hundred percent on board," Tabashnik pointed out. "You can tell by the long list of authors -- this wouldn't have happened without teamwork."

Photo:  Pink bollworm moth poised on a cotton plant.
Photo: Bruce Tabashnik holding a petri dish with pink bollworm larvae.
Read Full Story: New insect birth control strategy zaps cotton pests
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NEWS REPORT / CNN


A Ray of Hope for Women in Liberia

As Liberia recovers from the aftermath of the civil war, a few women find a ray of hope in a fair-trade clothing factory owned by a businessman called Chid Liberty.

Chid's family business was turned into a site of conflict, mass graves and executions during Liberia's fourteen-year civil war. The building was totally destroyed with even the metal electric wiring from the building stolen.

"There was talk that if you crossed the street and looked over, they would pull you in and execute you," Chid explained of his family building's role in the war to CNN.

Now that the war is over, and the country is struggling with poverty, Chid is on a mission to rebuild. He has started the Liberian Women's Sewing Project promoting women’s rights and helping them earn a livelihood i.e. a fair trade initiative. The factory is in the basement of the same building. These women are working in good conditions (the basement is air-conditioned) and are exporting t-shirts for major retailers in the United States.

The California-based organization Transfair USA has certified the factory as fair-trade, meaning it complies with 90 regulations, including child labor, forced labor, health and safety, working hours, wages.

Chid believes that the ethics are actually what make the factory stand out. He said to The World, a few months back "That’s actually our competitive advantage over a factory in China or a factory specifically that uses sweatshop labor, is that we say, listen, we have a supply chain you can actually boast about."

Chid is aware that he needs to make profit too. "It is 100 percent undoubtedly a business and I think our investors and clients will tell you the same thing," he told CNN.

"There isn't a time when we can say to our clients, we didn't get your t-shirts shipped on time, but hey, we're doing great work in Liberia so we want you to continue to give us your business - it won't happen.

"We're very much committed to our financial returns, meeting deadlines and operating under the same conditions that any other trading company or factory in any other part of the world would have to commit themselves to," he further said.

To read the full story: Bullet-ridden building in Liberia turns into fair-trade haven
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Thursday, November 11, 2010

PRESS RELEASE / VERTBAUDET

Vertbaudet Unveils Organic Cotton Collection

sustainable cotton
Children's fashion brand Vertbaudet has launched its ‘Organic Cotton Collection’ (featuring in its Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 catalogue). The new collection offers a range of fashionable but practical clothes for boys, girls, babies as well as maternity - all made from organic cotton and perfect for everyday wear, says a Press Release.

Considering the benefits of sustainable organic cotton production for the environment, the consumer and the cotton farmer, Vertbaudet have begun to expand their entire clothing range. The range now includes fashinable and comfortable clothes for infants and children of all ages.

 Founded over 40 years ago in France, Vertbaudet has garnered a reputation for putting “children first” and offering stylish, practical and innovative children's clothing collections. As specialists in their field, Vertbaudet are now recognised as a leading award-winning childrenswear and maternity wear brand, with high streets stores throughout Europe, as well as a prestigious home shopping network.

Photo Courtesy: Vertbaudet
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Thursday, November 4, 2010

NEWS REPORT / JUST-STYLE

Anvil: From Sustainable Cotton to Sustainable Business

organic cotton
Sustainability is a defining element of the future of the apparel industry, says Anthony Corsano, CEO of Anvil Knitwear in a report in Just-Style. Firms must find new ways to do business, and new ways to bring products to market that use recycled and sustainable materials, "because you can't possibly believe that the world can continue to consume...and that we'll have the ability to feed and clothe all these people with the resources on this planet."

"That's what takes this whole thing to the next level. While many companies say they're doing it because it's the right thing, they're doing it because they have to. It's the only way they'll be able to be in business ten, 20, 30, 50 years from now."

Anvil Knitwear has been ranked as the world’s sixth largest user of organic cotton and the largest domestic purchaser of US grown organic cotton by Organic Exchange. It is also going to be honoured as a 'top leader in sustainability' by the Foundation for Social Change and United Nations Office for Partnerships (UNOP). On November 18 in New York, The Foundation for Social Change and United Nations Office for Partnerships (UNOP) will recognize Anvil Knitwear as a Top Leader of Change in the sustainability category at the Global Conference for Social Change: Turning Social Responsibility Into Social Action, according to an Anvil press release.

Today, Anvil produces around 2m to 2.5m units a week - around 100m units a year - across both its own Anvil brand (which accounts for around 75% of volume) and private label goods made for major apparel names including Billabong and Disney Stores, reports Just-Style.

More than 20m units, or around one-fifth of output across both Anvil and private label lines, go out with some sustainability component, such as organic cotton, a percentage of organic cotton, recycled polyester, or transitional cotton, which is grown on farms making the switch to organic processes. And of the 25% of business that is private label, 66% or two out of every three shirts features a sustainability element.

Working more closely with suppliers has also been key to Anvil Knitwear's sustainability efforts. Not just yarn suppliers and thread suppliers, but "reaching up and down the chain."

Not only has this allowed changes to be introduced that are affordable, but it also ensures the business only works with suppliers "that we are aligned with philosophically. We have to be stringent about who we do business with."

Corsano says that unlike conventional cotton, which is secured through yarn spinners, he's in direct contact with the organic cotton farmers who supply Anvil, with whom he has established "long-term relationships, real partnerships."

This part of the business is not seeing the wild price swings currently enfolding the conventional cotton trade.

"We have an understanding [with the growers] that organic cotton should trade higher than conventional," he explains, "but we've taken out the ridiculous highs and lows, so we set prices for the year that kind-of track conventional."

"So there's tremendous stability today in comparison to the conventional, and we're able to use that to secure some programs and convince people that the organic aspect can bring more stability to the market."

Read the Full Story: Speaking with style: Anthony Corsano, CEO, Anvil Knitwear
Read the Press Release: Global Conference for Social Change Recognizes Anvil Knitwear as a Top Leader in Sustainability
Photo Credit: Anvil Knitwear
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Wednesday, November 3, 2010

NEWS REPORT / WILLS LIFESTYLE INDIA FASHION WEEK

WIFW Ramp Stories Of An Organic Turn

The recently concluded Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) in New Delhi, India, had a fair spread of organic couture on the ramp. With the international market for eco fashion growing, Indian designers are also coming up with their green collections.

Each label carries a story that connects to a real change at the farmer level. While Samanth Chauhan's work has contributed to the revival of the Bhagalpur handloom silk industry, Joyjit of the label Ela (or goddess earth) made his debut at the WIFW exhibiting his organic line at the exhibition area. He told IANS that the idea of displaying his line at this business-to-business platform was to promote organic cotton so that farmers benefited out of it.

Designer Anita Dongre furthered her ongoing effort to support sustainable fashion with her 'Fair Trade organic cotton' collection. Her collection called 'Grassroot' included beautiful summer dresses which were comfortable and stylish at the same time, reports the Times of India.

Designer Wendell Rodericks’ collection ‘The Kunbi Tribe’ used cotton and silk dyed with colours indigenous to the eponymous Goan community. According to PTI, Rodericks says "Kunbi salaries are about fashion with compassion. The production of kunbi saris showcased in my collection are reviving a lost weaving technique and the clothes have not been made at the expense of nature."

Read stories on WIFW
Photo Courtesy: Anita Dongre Website
It’s time for ethical fashion:PTI/Hindustan Times
A lovely 'Grassroot' collection by Anita: Times of India
Organic cotton and silks get rave reviews: IANS/Times of India
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