RESEARCH  / INTERNATIONAL COTTON ADVISORY COMMITTEE

ICAC Study Finds Pesticide Usage Down But Far From Sustainable

A Social, Environmental and Economic Performance (SEEP) of Cotton Production Study on "Pesticide use in Cotton in Australia, Brazil, India, Turkey and USA" says that while pesticide use has dropped from peak usage, a series of actions are required for sustainable farming. The SEEP report has made a number of recommendations, including that governments, with the involvement of all concerned stakeholders in the cotton sector, make a strong effort to promote best management practices in plant protection and to reduce reliance on pesticides and subsequent risks to the environment and human health.

According to SEEP, Integrated pest management (IPM) should be the major instrument to achieve and sustain long-term reductions in pesticide use in the cotton industry. The experience of countries that have already enacted effective IPM programmes should be considered by countries that are still devising strategies to reduce pesticide use.

SEEP is the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) Expert Panel on the Social Environmental and
Economic Performance of Cotton Production. The International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) is an association of governments of cotton producing, consuming and trading countries which acts as the international commodity body for cotton and cotton textiles.

The Expert Panel was formed as a result of deliberations during the 65th Plenary Meeting of ICAC in Goiania, Brazil, in September 2006 to provide objective, science-based  information on the negative and positive social, environmental and economic aspects of global cotton production. It comprises thirteen members who represent a broad cross section of countries, relevant knowledge, expertise and interest, not only from the traditional cotton industry, but also from universities and government agencies. SEEP terms of reference include the formulation of recommendations for further action as appropriate to improve sustainability in the performance of the cotton industry.

Mr Alan Williams, Chair of the Expert Panel on Social, Environmental and Economic Performance (SEEP) of Cotton Production (SEEP) presented the report during the International Cotton Advisory Committee's (ICAC) General Session at their September 20-25 meeting in Lubbock, Texas. SEEP commissioned Alterra, a research group from Wageningen University in the Netherlands, to conduct the analysis of pesticide use in the selected countries. SEEP has also prepared an interpretive summary of the study and four separate reports on the factors influencing the use of pesticides in cotton in Australia, Brazil, India and the U.S.A.

According to the report, in most of the countries, the use of extremely and highly hazardous chemicals was lower in 2006 than in previous years. However, in 2006 WHO Hazard Class I active ingredients were still being used on cotton at the rate of 0.89, 0.35 and 0.21 kg a.i./ ha, respectively, in Brazil, the USA and India. In Australia and Turkey, the use was significantly lower (0.07 kg a.i./ha).

A small number of substances (listed in Table 10 of the Study and reported below) contributed to more than
50% of the human health hazards caused by overall pesticide use on cotton and more than 50% of the overall
ETL. Four substances alone, namely endosulfan, diafenthiuron lambda-cyhalothrin and chlorpyrifos, are
responsible for around 60% of the hazard posed to fish. Active ingredients causing 50% of the hazard to human health according to WHO classification, and to the environment according to the ETL, in the five studied countries

Further, the study showed that there is no correspondence between variation in pesticide use over time and cotton yields. Australia achieved a decrease in per-hectare average pesticide use over the studied period, while the average cotton yield per hectare increased. Turkey achieved the second highest cotton yield per hectare among the five countries, despite the lowest average amount of pesticides used per hectare of cotton and not having introduced biotech cotton. In Brazil, average yields grew in parallel with an intensification of the use of pesticides.


Analysis of the most recent information available for each country resulted in the following figures for pesticide
use on cotton:
1 kg a.i./ha in Australia (2007)
4.9 kg a.i./ha in Brazil (2006)
0.9 kg a.i./ha in India (2006)
0.6 kg a.i./ha in Turkey (2006)
1.2 kg a.i./ha in the USA (2006)

In Australia, the average amount of pesticides (kg a.i.) applied per hectare steadily declined after a peak
reached in 1999. No clear trends in amounts used were distinguishable in India, Turkey and the USA,


A number of recommendations were made by the Study including:

i) SEEP recommends that WHO Hazard Class I pesticides be eliminated in countries where adequate
provisions for their management are not in place (see section 6 of the Study/Alterra Report for details
on “adequate provision”). In many developing countries, regulatory control over the use of pesticides to reduce health and environmental risks to acceptable levels is still incomplete or not sufficiently enforced due to the lack of technical expertise and resources. In these  countries, the use of pesticides that fall in WHO Hazard Class I poses a direct and a real risk to people handling such substances. Countries are encouraged to use the International Code of Conduct on the Distribution and Use of Pesticides (refer to section 6) to enhance their capacity to reduce risks related to pesticide use.

ii) SEEP recommends that cotton-producing countries where the use of pesticide is higher than 1 kg of a.i. per ha should analyse the causes of such use and address these causes. Four of the five countries studied have been able to reduce their average pesticide use per hectare to around or below 1 kg of a.i, regardless of the type of farming systems prevalent and the pest load occurring (Figure 3 in the Study).

iii) SEEP recommends that the use of active ingredients that account for the highest contribution to the

environmental toxicity load (listed under section 2.2 of this Summary) should be minimized to reduce the environmental hazards to aquatic organisms and bees.

iv) SEEP recommends that pesticides known to pose possible risk of harm to the unborn child or to breast-fed children should be eliminated from the cotton production system. Active ingredients falling
into this category were used at an almost negligible rate in the five countries studied, and elimination
of these products from cotton cultivation would seem attainable.

v) SEEP recommends that governments, with the involvement of all concerned stakeholders in the cotton sector, make a strong effort to promote best management practices in plant protection and to reduce reliance on pesticides and subsequent risks to the environment and human health. Integrated pest management (IPM) should be the major instrument to achieve and sustain long-term reductions in pesticide use in the cotton industry. The experience of countries that have already enacted effective IPM programmes should be considered by countries that are still devising strategies to reduce pesticide use.

vi) SEEP recommends that governments consider both environmental and health risks while formulating
clear policy statements relative to pesticide risk reduction. This requires close collaboration with the responsible authorities.

vii) SEEP recommends that governments promote the collection of reliable crop-specific data related to
pesticide use. Accurate data are indispensable for the follow-up of risk assessment studies, although schemes of data collection might vary according to country conditions.

viii) SEEP recommends that follow-up risk assessment studies be conducted. The Study (Alterra Report)
provided important insights into the social and environmental sustainability of cotton cultivation. It is important to note that the evaluation of hazards alone does not allow drawing definitive conclusions on the actual risks posed to the environment and human health by the use of pesticides in a specific context.


Read the Summary Report: An Interpretative Summary of the Study on: Pesticide use in cotton in Australia, Brazil, India, Turkey and the USA

Photo Courtesy: Natural Fibres, New Internationalist Magazine, WWF, New Agriculturist

NEWS REPORT / WALL STREET JOURNAL, UNICEF

IKEA's Story of Sustainable Cotton Farming And Saving Childhood

IKEA's social development initiatives in India are in full swing and are expanding quickly according to various reports that were published during the visit of Mikael Ohlsson to India.

According to a report in the Wall Street Journal, IKEA CEO Mikael Ohlsson said the company has committed to invest 125 million euros in a variety of projects by 2015. Among the target initiatives: those aimed at sustainable cotton farming to reduce water and pesticide use; prevention of child labor, and women’s empowerment through financial self-help groups.

To carry out its development projects, IKEA is partnering with international institutions and non-profits such as UNICEF, Save the Children, the UN Development Programme and WWF. The goal is for the various initiatives to benefit 100 million Indian children.


According to Mr. Ohlsson said that while IKEA is paying special attention to helping those whose businesses provide key inputs for the furniture company – like Indian cotton farmers – its development programs are “holistic” and benefit many people who aren’t suppliers for the company.

Speaking to the Indian collaboration of the Wall Street Journal, Mint, he said the focus on use of less water, pesticides, chemical fertilizers results in more income for the families, for the farmers. Better health for the people in the industry, which is a very important part.

Currently, IKEA says it has about 60,000 farmers in the programme that is just a few years old. And that has witnessed big, big changes in a very limited time.

A Unicef report talks about the change that has come about since the start of the Unicef-IKEA campaign: Cotton production is painstaking work that requires long hours of cleaning, seeding and hauling water to fields, then standing and individually cross-pollinating each flower by hand before finally plucking every bloom. Often, child workers suffer respiratory and other health problems caused by exposure to pesticides, extreme heat and physical stress. Some are also beaten or sexually abused by employers.

Since 2006, UNICEF and the IKEA Social Initiative have partnered to tackle child labour in India by building public awareness about existing laws that forbid it. The country’s child labour law prohibits the hiring of children younger than 14, but enforcement has been difficult since few children understand their rights.

Alongside the Government of India and non-governmental partners, UNICEF has worked to mobilize a new campaign around Raichur, using posters, television and radio campaigns, street performances, public rallies and other awareness-raising activities to reach hundreds of surrounding villages.

Thanks to funding support from the IKEA Social Initiative, experts are hopeful that by 2011 about 15,000 of the estimated 20,000 working children between the ages of 6 and 14 in and around Raichur will be back in school.

Photo Courtesy: Unicef

PRESS RELEASE / LAKME FASHION WEEK 2010

Back to Nature Walks The Ramp in Lakme Fashion Week

The Lakme Fashion Week in India has a strong showing by designers building their stories around the organic, sustainable and back to nature themes.

Anita Dongre’s collection at the Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2010 show was called “A Tale of Two Cities” but it was also a tale of two collections from the very creative designer.

Inspired by the Rajasthan village woman, her prêt IINTERPRET line was aimed at the jet setting woman, who loves to blend the styles of the east and west. Using some eco friendly fabrics like Liva‐Viscose by Birla Cellulose, Anita had a versatile wardrobe for the woman on the go.

In the Anita Dongre ‐ TIMELESS line with touches of Jaipur, there were the Indian textiles and weaves which made a dramatic impression on the ramp. Using organic cotton, vegetable dyes and hand block prints, the look was regal and opulent for bridal wear with silver zardozi work, mukaish and gotta craft which were used lavishly for the ghagras, churidars and beautiful saris.

NEWS REPORT / TORONTO SUN & ECO FASHION WEEK

Vancouver Gets Ready For Eco Fashion Week

Vancouver is the next stop for the world of eco-designers as the Eco Fashion Week, presented by Aveda, kicks off in the last week of September, bringing together the fashion and clothing industry, media, buyers, consumers and the worlds of eco practices, style and sustainability.

A selection of the best eco-designers from around the world will come together to showcase their latest collections of environmentally friendly, trend-setting fashion. With collaboration from designers, buyers, models, agencies, fashion directors, trend setters and media, the message is global.

EFW will be held biannually and will focus solely on environmentally friendly designers and practices.

According to the website of EFW, there is a growing shift in the fashion industry to include the well-being of the environment into its practices and Vancouver has become widely known as a haven for independent designers who are committed to using recycled, organically grown, and locally produced fashion. A direct effect of EFW will be to stimulate the growth of eco-conscious fashion and accelerate the industry’s renaissance into the environmental age.

The world’s best eco-designers will gather in Vancouver to showcase the newest in environmentally friendly fashion, reports the Toronto Sun. Eco Fashion Week (September 27 to 30) will celebrate responsible style, refine sustainable industry practices and inform consumers about the benefits of eco-friendly fashion. EFW will showcase designers that incorporate recycled materials and organic, renewable materials in their designs.

Supermodel and environmentalist Gisele Bündchen is Goodwill Ambassador for the Environment for Eco Fashion Week. Working with SIGG Canada, Gisele will launch a new designer water bottle at the event, which promises to be plastic bottle-free.

Stella McCartney leads the pack of well-known designers who are walking the fashion talk, including Marc Jacobs, Narcisco Rodriguez, Donna Karan, Burberry, Jil Sander, Versace, Ralph Lauren, and Calvin Klein, says the Toronto Sun.

Erika Mullens is another young Canadian designer who is incorporating her concern for the environment with her love for fashion. Her fashion line, Fever Resort & Cruisewear, is functional, fashionable and affordable. Garments are made from environmentally friendly fabrics that travel well and require minimum care, saving both effort and energy.

“We challenge our customers to look behind the label to understand why and how a garment has been made,” said Mullens. “The way we manufacture and market our products illustrates our ongoing commitment to the environment.”

Industry expert Carly Stojsic will present key insights and research into ecofashion, forecasting trends for 2011-2012. Ecofashion has grown to encompass a movement within the fashion industry; emphasising the importance of environmental consideration, ecofashion supports a shift in conventional practice. Stojsic is Canada’s Market Editor at Worth Global Style Network (WGSN), and at EFW, she will showcase ecofashion. Eco as Movement, not Trend will secure the place of ecofashion within the industry.

Read News from the Eco Fashion Week
Read "Vancouver gets eco chic" in the Toronto Sun
Photo Courtesy: Eco Fashion Week

NEWS REPORT / THE ECONOMIC TIMES

Apparel Brands Take An Eco Turn In India

Major apparel brands in India are taking a eco-turn with environment friendly textile lines now being seen as an essential part of the line up. Retail brands are acknowledging a small but significant consumer demand which is not only willing to pay the premium, but is also making a conscious choice for sustainable garments.

A report in the leading Indian business daily Economic Times says "Organic clothing is a revolution towards a better living. Less of a commodity and more of an idea or a concept, Indian garment companies are pitching in with their efforts to promote the concept."

According to the Economic Times report, being eco-friendly has acquired a business sense in retail. With apparel retailers including Wills Lifestyle, Van Heusen, Benetton, S Kumar’s Nationwide (SKNL) and Arrow betting big on eco-friendly line of apparel to woo the environment-conscious consumers, the segment is set to get a leg up in times to come.

The report says that while currently this segment accounts for less than 1% of the Rs 32,000-crore organised branded apparel market, it has a potential to grow to about 5% of the total market in the next five years, say industry players.

Van Heusen, the apparel brand from Madura Garments, which launched its green range of apparel in April this year, has seen a healthy demand in the market for organic clothing. Wary of how the market will receive such a line, the brand started with a limited edition, but soon saw it flying off the shelves.

Jeans maker Levi’s, which already retails organic jeans in the US market, is set to launch its organic line for male and female denims —Levis- Eco—in India. While the cotton used by the company for making jeans is organic, the button on the waistband is made of coconut shell. There are no metal rivets, the dye is from natural compounds include indigo, and the label is from recycled cardboard.

However, the report cautions that the segment is still at a nascent stage as it is yet to penetrate the mass segment due to pricing difference. According to retailers, a piece of clothing in the eco-friendly segment is priced at about 30% higher than the usual apparel. While developing an eco-friendly range of apparel increases the cost to the company, limited suppliers producing clothing out of natural ingredients or recycled material also pose an additional challenge for the retailers. As a result, the production of apparel has not exceeded about 100,000 pieces a month. Despite these limitations, brands are bullish on the prospects of eco-garments.

Read the full report in The Economic Times: Demand for eco-friendly apparel grows

COMPANY REPORT / PEOPLE TREE

A Journey to Bangladesh

Emma Watson's recent trip to Bangladesh with People Tree has brought closer to the people to whose lives Fair Trade makes a difference. Writing on the People Tree website, Emma says "I still find it hard to convey what Fair Trade means to those producing our fashion - it's just so impressive to see how the women have used Fair Trade clothing to escape poverty and empower themselves and their children. I was very moved and inspired."

Endorsing the new collection of People Tree, she writes, " Although I wasn't centrally involved in the design of this collection, I had great fun in helping Safia select some gorgeous Fair Trade textiles - a dogtooth hand woven check, cable knits, soft organic jerseys and the first Fair Trade hand woven brushed checked fabric which has been made into easy tulip skirts, dresses and shirts."

"There are even a few party dresses, such as the little black satin tulip dress which can be dressed up or down to suit any occasion! I have picked out some of my favourite pieces which I have modelled for People Tree."

In an interview with Safia Minney of People Tree, Emma goes on to say, "Having seen the slums in Dhaka and the conditions in which these people live and work to produce 'fast fashion', I would say to those people that this is not the way we should be making clothes in the modern world.

These workers have no rights and work every hour of the day just to feed their families. Fair Trade gives families the option to stay together, rather than one or both parents having to move to cities, and they are paid a fair wage. It empowers people and doesn't take away their dignity."

Read Emma Watson's Message and Interview at People Tree

Photo Courtesy: People Tree

INTERVIEW / TRAIDCRAFT COUNTRY DIRECTOR NEETI MALHOTRA

Fighting Poverty Through Trade

Traidcraft, a UK-based fair trade organization, established in 1979  fights poverty through trade, helping people in developing countries to transform their lives. In India, Traidcraft works to create demonstration models with farmers and engages in advocacy of issues that adversely impact small farmers.

Traidcraft earlier this year helped launch the fair trade label ‘Shop for Change’ in India, with a focus on cotton as the lead protect. According to Country Director for Traidcraft Exchange's India Country Programme, Neeti Malhotra, at the trade and support levels, the positive impact of Traidcraft’s work has been through the collectivization of small farmers, giving them an identity and thereby increasing their power of negotiation in the market, accessing business services, and achieving economies of scale.

At the influence level, she believes collective operations have enabled farmers to feel empowered to advocate and lobby for their issues and effect policy change. 

In an interview with Make Cotton Sustainable, Neeti Malhotra says “Farmers now realize their own importance in supply chains and are also able to raise their voices on several policy issues.”

Why are Cotton farmers important to Traidcraft?

Traidcraft specializes in equipping the poor with business and enterprise skills, and lobbying and advocacy skills that enable them to improve their lives. We have over 25 years expertise in South Asia based upon tried and tested practical interventions.

Cotton farmers are important to Traidcraft because of the sheer size of the sector worldwide and the very large number of small and poor farmers who grow cotton in agriculturally difficult regions of the world – i.e. arid and semi arid.  In two of the countries that Traidcraft works in – Kenya and India, cotton is one of the major crops and millions of farmers are dependent on it.

Over 15 million Indian farmers and their families rely on cotton for their livelihoods. However small cotton farmers are disorganised and unable to wield any political power.

Most Indian agricultural policies that relate to the cotton sector (such as the Minimum Support Price, procurement, marketing, credit, input support etc.), do not favour small farmers. For example, chemical fertilisers are very expensive. Subsidies are paid to the companies and are not passed to the farmers.  In addition, these huge subsidies have encouraged the indiscriminate use of chemical fertilisers, which has resulted in the degradation of natural resources, especially soil, and is now threatening the food security of the country.

Small cotton farmers also face a number of other problems which make it hard for them to earn a sustainable livelihood: they face ever-increasing costs which are pushing many into debt; they are too poor to invest in new technology; they face low productivity and yields due to poor soil quality and poor quality seeds; they suffer from poor health and nutrition which reduces the time they can spend earning income; they face expensive and exploitative local credit and inputs (such as pesticides and seeds); and they lack any sort of safety net. Erratic weather patterns in the shape of unprecedented droughts or flash floods due to climate change have increased their vulnerability even more. In the face of so many problems an estimated 200,000 farmers, many of them cotton farmers, have committed suicide in India since 2003 - and this trend shows no sign of stopping. (On average there has been one farmer suicide every 32 minutes since 2003.) Small cotton farmers need practical interventions to help them develop more sustainable cultivation.


Who are your partners in India?

In the cotton sector, Traidcraft has been working with Agrocel for over a decade now.  Our other partners in the cotton sector include, Shop for Change (Mumbai) SEVA (in Raichur) and the Nav Nirman Trust (in Raichur).  Through a Cotton Forum that we have recently initiated, we are networking with other NGOs including Chethna Organic, Chethana Society, Zameen Organic, Centre for Sustainable Agriculture, Oxfam, Organic Exchange, among others.  

What is your vision for Traidcraft as an organisation?

Traidcraft’s India office is a liaison office working as the representative of its main office in the UK.  Given our limited role and the size of our operations, Traidcraft sees itself playing the role of a catalyst to bring together like-minded organizations on a common platform and facilitate their working together with each others’ strengths towards a common mission of reducing poverty. 

What geographies are you working in on Cotton in India?

At present, the India Cotton project developed by Traidcraft UK is being implemented by project partners (local Indian NGOs) in the Raichur district of Karnataka.  This project is funded by UK’s Department for International Development (DFID). Along with partners, we do demonstrative projects but through platforms like the Cotton Forum, we are covering a larger geographic area by influencing action and policy level work. Our future plans on cotton are geared around the main cotton growing regions in the country particularly central and southern India.

What are the positive impacts you have created and how do you measure them?

Traidcraft works at three levels – trading (access to markets), support (technical and business services training & consultancy), and influence (policy change).

At the trade and support levels, the positive impact of Traidcraft’s work has been through the collectivization of small farmers, giving them an identity and thereby increasing their power of negotiation in the market, accessing business services, and achieving economies of scale.  Where there is a choice of fairtrade markets and fairtrade certification, farmers are able to get a fairtrade premium for their crop which has benefitted their community.  Through provision of appropriate services and related training, the costs of production has  reduced due to better and environment friendly agricultural practices.  This is measured against the baseline data collected in each ‘project’.

At the influence level, collective operations have also enabled farmers to feel empowered to advocate and lobby for addressing their issues and effect policy change.  Farmers now realize their own importance in supply chains and are also able to raise their voices on several policy issues.

In January this year, Traidcraft helped launch a fair trade label ‘Shop for Change’ in India with a focus on cotton as the lead product.  This has and will bring in a number of private sector organisations to join the movement to create fair trade supply chains in India.  We have also begun to build a consumer movement around fair trade to strengthen the demand side of these supply chains.

This is supported by advocacy at the international levels, interactions with UK companies (through the Ethical Trading Initiative and Fairtrade Foundation), and sharing learning across the regions where we work.


What role do you think the private sector players e.g retailers can play to catalyse this effort?

Private sector players along all parts of the cotton supply chain are critical to sustainable change through their good practices and ensuring that they keep development at the heart of their business operations. 
Traidcraft plc which is a leading fair trade organisation in the UK does this by example.  Therefore, working with private sector companies e.g. seed companies and retailers can play a very important role in ensuring the interests of small cotton farmers are taken care of. 

If, for instance, retailers agree to promote products made of certified (whether organic or fairtrade) cotton and educate consumers regarding the benefits of these products to the farmers, farmers can be assured of better prices, assured markets and cultivation practices that are not harmful to their health and that of their families.  Similarily, if seed companies commit themselves to a ban on the use of child labour in seed production, a very unfair practice would stop.  Seed companies (as their social responsibility) could support this through better wages to the farmer families (so that they are not tempted or forced to send their children for work) and ensuring educational opportunities for the children of the farmers working for them.

Photo Courtesy: Traidcraft

NEWS REPORT / BUSINESS STANDARD

Alok Industries, Victoria's Secret And Burkina Faso

There is another Victoria's Secret: The Indian connection to the global rage tied in with cotton sources from Burkina Faso, says a report in the Business Standard. The story begins a little while back.

According to an earlier West Africa Cotton Improvement Program (WACIP) report, in July 2007, the National Union of Burkinabe Cotton Producers (UNPCB) signed an agreement with Limited Brands on behalf of Victoria's Secret to purchase 600 MT of organic “fair trade” cotton, the bulk of Burkina Faso's organic cotton crop. Under the contract, UNPCB had to assure proper handling so the cotton could be certified as organic. To support this innovative deal, WACIP contributed funds to help UNPCB purchase locally-fabricated cotton sacks and wrapping materials as well as training of farmers.

Now, says the Business Standard, Alok Industries' has had a three year sourcing arrangement from Burkina Faso and is now taking its machines to the West African Country.

According to the Business Standard, Alok Industries’ involvement with Victoria’s Secret and Burkina Faso is actually three years old. Since 2007, Alok Industries along with its Sri Lankan partner, MAS Intimates, sources close to 300 tonnes of Burkinabe cotton from there. This cotton gets shipped to India and Alok Industries spins 200 tonnes of yarn from that. This yarn is then made into fabric and sent to MAS Intimates factories for the final garment before it hits high street fashion shelves from New York and Paris to London and Tokyo.

But now, in order to make the economics even more viable and to kickstart industrialisation in the former French colony, Alok Industries is planning to set up a manufacturing base - a spinning unit of 68,000 spindles.

Currently, Alok Industries sources 3,500 tonnes of yarn from outside to fulfill its own clothing requirement. A facility in Burkina Faso will now give it an option to make 600 tonnes of yarn every month. That’s 7,200 tonnes every year which the company can use for its own requirement or sell to other textile companies.

Alok Industries exports 35 per cent of its products to over 70 countries in the US, Europe, South America and Africa. Other than Victoria’s Secret, its global customers include GAP, JC Penney, Mothercare and Walmart. Alok Industries’ export income in 2010 has seen 60 per cent annual growth at Rs 1560 crore.

Read here the full report on "Alok Industries spins Victoria's Secret in Burkina Faso" in the Business Standard

Photo Courtesy: WACIP and Victoria's Secret