FEATURE/TRACK MY T

Tracking the Journey of A T Shirt

As a responsible consumer, wouldn't it  be great if one could know everything about his t shirt? Well, that is possible with an Anvil's website called Track My T!. One simply needs to type in the T Number (located on the left side panel of the inside of his Anvil t shirt) and one can get to know all about the journey of his T Shirt, from the farm land to the wardrobe.

The website tells about the farm, cotton gin, yarn spinner, textile mill, cutting and sewing process, distribution center etc. It also answers basic questions like how much cotton is needed to produce one t shirt, where does most of America’s cotton grow etc. It has a conventional farm image gallery and a conventional farm video to let readers know how does the process start. In fact, it has photo galleries and videos for every stage of production explaining things in a simple and organized manner.

Track My T helps consumers to know how and where exactly the process can be made more sustainable. For example, there is information about eco friendly screen printing, recycling etc. After going through the website, one would discover there are many things he or she did not know. For example, cardboard boxes, light bulbs, plastic cases and even the water used in the dyeing process can be recycled and how scraps of fabrics can be used to make more shirts.

The website is an effort from Anvil to enable the consumers buying its t shirts to know what a tracking label means, how was the t shirt produced, what was the estimated carbon footprint and how they can reduce their own carbon footprint.

To know more: http://www.trackmyt.com

NEWS REPORT / FIBRES2FASHION

Arvind Gears Up For Organic Denim

Consumer demand for organic cotton is rapidly increasing as more and more people are now aware that their choice of clothes has a huge impact on environment. Consequently, the demand for organic cotton is high among in the textile sector. This includes the denim industry.

India's denim industry is not far behind global trends. Arvind Limited, for example, is working with over 1000 small and marginal farmers in the Vidharb region of Maharashtra, helping farmers grow organic cotton. A team of Arvind’s organic farming experts provides constant technical support for farmers in the form of weekly consultation visits, practical demonstration of composting and organic pest management methods, and village-level training programmes on all aspects of organic farming.

Mr Mahesh Ramakrishnan, Head of Agribusiness at Arvind Limited, in a presentation at the International Denim Conference was reported by fibres2fashion.com pointing out that denim is the single largest consumer of cotton accounting for around 17 per cent of global cotton consumption.

Arvind started organic denim production in 2007, with capacity of one million meters and today produces eight million meters a year, about 8 per cent of its total production. Wal-Mart, Patagonia, C&A, Timberland, etc are major supporters of Arvind's organic denim initiative.

Arvind's organic cotton contract farming project is located in the cotton growing belt district of Maharashtra; Akola. From just 2 talukas, 33 villages, 293 farmers and 1,355 acres of cotton acreage in 2007-08 it has now enlarged to 6 talukas, 132 villages, 4,000 farmers and cotton under cultivation, has also surged around 12 times to 16,500 acres.

Photo Courtesy: Arvind Limited
To read the full story: India: Organic cotton demand outstrips supply – Mr Mahesh, Arvind Ltd

FEATURE / THE GREEN STYLIST

Project Chetna: Setting Transparent Standards

The big issue in any farm linked organic produce that works through an elaborate supply chain is the issue of integrity of the process through its various stages. Now, more and more Indian cotton growers and farmers applying organic means are making sure that organic growing efforts in the field are transparently recorded, certified and carried through to manufacturing. 

One such organization that is connecting organic farming in tribal areas is Chetna Organic which represents the belief of more than 8000 predominantly tribal farmers in the practices of sustainable agriculture and ethical trade. According to Chetna Organic, it is an effort to support small and marginal tribal farmers from the rain-fed regions of Andhra Pradesh (Telengana), Mahrashtra (Vidarbha) and Western Orissa (Kalahandi & Bolangir) to adapt agrarian systems which are more sustainable and more profitable, by minimizing their dependence on external factors.

Garments manufactured with Chetna cotton can be traced back to the farmer’s field they came from, says an article in The Green Stylist.  They have both internal and external inspections by Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International (FLO) to track all inputs and outputs. Chetna also complies with third party inspections to show their transparency . Finally, farmers are trained extensively in regards to quality control and certification standards.

Project Chetna (an organic cotton project) started in the year 2004 as a supply chain initiative. The goal was to improve the livelihoods of cotton farmers who had small farm lands through making their farming systems more profitable and more sustainable.

At Chetna, 100% organic cotton is produced with fair trade practices. The production does not involve child labor, synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, or GMOs.  Most of the cotton produced is purchased by organic and Fair Trade certified facility Rajlakshmi Cotton Mills (RCM), a Kolkata based manufacturer which produces and exports organic textiles.

Photo Courtesy: Chetna Organic

To read the full story: Fair Trade Apparel Factory – The Chetna Organic Cotton Project

NEWS REPORT / NATURAL NEWS

Top Brands Driving Organic Cotton Demand

As customers are becoming more concerned about the environment, the demand for organic cotton is increasing sharply. Top textile brands like Nike and Levis Strauss are hence driving the change. It is a good trend considering the fact that big brands are trusted and known and therefore can play a big role in promoting organic cotton.

John Mowbray, editor of the magazine Ecotextile says, "There's a paradigm shift in the textile sector.” Three years ago, sustainability was not on the agenda. Now a lot of retailers and brands want to move regardless of what their suppliers think. They think consumers want transparency. Brands are driving change."

According to Natural News, in 2009, with a global recession producing a 7 percent decrease in the global apparel and textiles market, sales of organic products increased 35 percent. This is consistent with the average 40 percent yearly growth in the organic cotton apparel and home textiles market since 2001.

Organic cotton production increased 20 percent in 2009, and is expected to grow another 20 to 40 percent through 2011. Organic products are now offered by big brands Nike, Adidas and Levi Strauss, and are sold at discount stores such as Wal-Mart in the United States and Tesco in the United Kingdom.

To read the full story: Organic cotton suddenly in demand among top textile brands

NEWS REPORT / LUBBOCK ONLINE

Anvil Goes For Double

Anvil Knitwear is betting big on the organic cotton future, sharply taking up its commitments on procurement. According to a news report in Lubbock Online, Anvil recently made a commitment with the Lubbock-based Texas Organic Cotton Marketing Cooperative to double the production of organic cotton in the US. That means Anvil Knitwear, the largest consumer of US organic cotton, will pay a premium for all the production from the increased acreage and will encourage other producers to switch to organic cotton. The New York-based company will also purchase any of the cotton making the transition into organic production at a price close to the price of organic cotton.

Anvil offers 17 eco friendly styles in fibers such as organic cotton, recycled cotton, transitional cotton (or cotton in conversion) and recycled polyester from PET bottles. Anvil was recently ranked the 6th largest organic program in the world by the Organic Exchange.

Photo Courtesy: Anvil
To read the full story: Clothing retailer commits to doubling organic cotton production

NEWSLETTER / COTTON CONNECT

CottonConnect Celebrates Its First Anniversary

This month CottonConnect celebrates its first anniversary, having created in the year past a team of highly experienced textiles, fashion, brand, farm and cotton supply chain specialists, while developing an extensive network on the ground to connect farmers with markets around the world.

According to CottonConnect, the year has been spent in working closely with a number of major retailers to better understand their cotton needs. Looking forward, things look bright as well.

According to a CottonConnect newsletter, it is now working with over 15,000 cotton farmers in India – through specifically designed farmer training programmes and social development projects. CottonConnect is also working at every level of their customers’ supply chains to create greater transparency.

CottonConnect estimates that today it is already impacting the lives of approximately 75,000 men, women and children in their communities.

However, CottonConnect believes that the real challenge is to make sure these benefits can be sustained and made to impact greater numbers of people and the environment by encouraging economic engagement that benefits everyone – right from the farmer to the finished product.

CottonConnect's target is to touch and impact the lives of 500,000 people by 2015 as more and more clothing brands look toward creating sustainable cotton sources for their supply chain even as it looks at developing its work further in South Asia and China in 2011.

To read the full story: Celebrating success - One year on

NEWS REPORT / DECCAN CHRONICLE

Co-optex Introduces Green Collection for Children

The Tamil Nadu (India) government-owned enterprise, Co-optex, has introduced an “eco-friendly” collection for children for the first time. All the clothing items in the new collection are made with organic cotton, using natural dyes, according to a news report in the Deccan Chronicle.

The Tamil Nadu state handlooms minister KKSSR Ramachandran has said that the collection has been launched keeping in mind the importance of children’s health. It is available in all the 131 showrooms spread across Tamil Nadu and in addition at 69 sales outlets functioning outside the state. The collection targets infants to children up to five years of age and the price ranges from Rs200 to Rs450.

The Tamilnadu Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Society, popularly called as Co-optex was established in 1935 and has a long and rich tradition in handlooms, history that dates back over 75 years, even before Indian Independence.

To read the full story: Co-optex turns green for kids

NEWS REPORT / TREE HUGGER

Designer T- Shirts For a Cause

Argentinian firm La Remera, has committed to donate one t- shirt to children in rural communities for every purchase, according to a report in the Tree Hugger, . It is called BoGo model: Buy One Give One model. The t- shirts manufactured by the company are made of materials such as Pima cotton through a sustainable manner.

The BoGo model became popular after TOMS shoes adopted it. The model is based on investing profits from sales to donate products to segments in need, and is growing with new projects every day.

La Remera sells at a boutique in a posh neighborhood in Buenos Aires located in Rue des artisans. The company was founded by Ariel Estanga, an Argentine designer that worked for big fashion companies like Zara and Mango.

In a quest to do something meaningful, Ariel partnered with APAER an association of citizens that supports rural schools. APAER says that they support rural schools because they believe that change is possible only through education.

To read the full story”: Sophisticated, Responsible T-Shirts Help Rural Schools In Argentina
Photo Courtesy: La Remera

FEATURE / CHRISTMAS GIFTS

Give Your Loved Ones Wholesome Gifts
Christmas is around the corner and this year you can make a statement by giving eco-friendly gifts to your loved ones. Even if your friends are not tree huggers, they might turn into green beginners at least. Below are a few gifts that you can buy this Christmas and feel good about giving them:

1. You can give an organic cotton apron to friends who are chefs or the ones who simply love to cook. These aprons have 2 front pockets, an adjustable neck strap and it says, "don't panic.... it's organic! Check out Green Fibres.

2. You can give an Azuri organic cotton scarf to all your lady friends. This scarf is not only warm but also acts as a great fashion accessory. It comes in 110 different colors and is 100% organic cotton. It looks cool with jean and tees, dresses and almost everything. Check out Nimli.
3. Every year, so much money is spent on Christmas decorations. This time, you can think of doing something green while decorating your house. Instead of using napkins — cloth or otherwise — you can consider using People Towels. These lightweight, organic cotton, reusable hand towels also double as napkins. Check out People Towels.

4. You can buy toys made of organic cotton as a gift for children. With an organic cotton toy, even if your child is chewing its ears, you can relax as it would not harm her. Check out Sckoon.

5. In case you want to gift your dog something, you can try buying designer dog clothes made of certified organic cotton. Sckoon's new ‘Natural Pet Apparel’ collection includes organic cotton dog kimonos, dog T-shirts and pet soft toys - stylish, soft, and colorful. Check out Sckoon.

6. If there is a newborn in the family waiting for a Christmas gift, you can give organic baby clothings or blankets for her. If you want something that is sustainable, yet colorful to babies, check out butters&beans.

And yes, one of the most important parts of giving a gift is packing. Instead of packing your gifts in wrapping papers, buy an organic cotton bag and stuff your gift in it. This way, you are giving two gifts and saving the environment too!

There are many such wonderful ideas. You simply need to give it a thought. This Christmas, you can gift your friends something that is organic. This Christmas, you can make a difference.

PRESS RELEASE / PR NEWSWIRE

A Label to Ensure Fairness

Fair Trade USA, the leading third-party certifier of Fair Trade products in the United States, has announced that a full range of Fair Trade Certified™ clothing items are now available in the United States as part of a two-year pilot test, says a PR Newswire press release.

With the popularity of sustainable fashion, many brands in the market have launched new collections and started calling themselves fair. But how fair are they? Now, Fair Trade USA has taken the initiative to ensure fairness, right from the cotton fields to people’s wardrobe.

"Maybe you've already had a green makeover, but ethical fashion is about more than just protecting the environment. It's about people, and 'fair' is just a knock-off without third-party certification to deliver the proof," said Heather Franzese, Senior Manager of Apparel and Linens. "With the Fair Trade Certified™ label, consumers can now be confident that cotton farmers and factory workers earn more and have safe working conditions, the environment was protected, and the people who made the high-quality product can look forward to brighter futures."

Fair Trade USA is currently working with brands like Greenlight Apparel, prAna and Indigenous Designs to launch Fair Trade Certified clothing items, sourced from India, Liberia and Peru, in Spring 2011 and beyond.

The certification would help consumers and companies create jobs and sustainable livelihoods for garment workers and cotton farmers who are struggling with poverty in India, Latin America and Africa.

According to Fair Trade USA, Fair Trade principles include:

Fair price: Democratically organized farmer groups receive a guaranteed minimum floor price and an additional premium for certified organic products. Farmer organizations are also eligible for pre-harvest credit.

Fair labor conditions: Workers on Fair Trade farms enjoy freedom of association, safe working conditions, and living wages. Forced child labor is strictly prohibited.

Direct trade: With Fair Trade, importers purchase from Fair Trade producer groups as directly as possible, eliminating unnecessary middlemen and empowering farmers to develop the business capacity necessary to compete in the global marketplace.

Democratic and transparent organizations: Fair Trade farmers and farm workers decide democratically how to invest Fair Trade revenues.

Community development: Fair Trade farmers and farm workers invest Fair Trade premiums in social and business development projects like scholarship programs, quality improvement trainings, and organic certification.

Environmental sustainability: Harmful agrochemicals and GMOs are strictly prohibited in favor of environmentally sustainable farming methods that protect farmers’ health and preserve valuable ecosystems for future

To read the full story: Fair Trade USA Launches First Ethical Fashion Certification Label

PROFILE / LYDIE N'TCHA, ORGANIC FARMER

Lydie N'TCHA: Motivation for Organic Cotton Farmers in Benin

Lydie N’TCHA is an organic cotton farmer in the village of Bouanrou in Benin. She started growing organic cotton after Mrs. Placide Suzanne TAMA, coordinator of the local NGO AFVA introduced her to it in 2007. In February 2008, she along with some other farmers went on an exchange visit to the village of Fada N’gourma, in the East Region of Burkina Faso.

According to Lydie, after the exchange with peers from Burkina Faso, some of her fellow farmers got motivated enough to be involved while others were worried. Lydie was one of the forty women farmers who decided to start organic cotton farming.

The timing was good, considering the fact that Fada N’gouma, situated at the border with the North region of Benin was in a good location for growing cotton, especially organic cotton. Happy with her production of 0.25 hectare in 2009, Lydie has decided to increase her production area to 0.5 hectare.

Good production by farmers like Lydie inspired three other neighbouring communities, Pehunco, Kouande and Kerou, to join the program. Lydie is the president of Inter-communal Union and aims to expand the project Faaban Winsu (UI-CPCB) to be able to create a belt with the project Alafia, organic cotton, which is developed around the Pendjari reserve.

Lydie is happy with organic cotton as she does not need to invest much. There is no need of mineral fertilisers or chemical pesticides. She noticed that on the soils where organic cotton has been produced, because of the organic fertilisers, the cereals (maize, sorghum etc.) grow very well. She further says, “Before we got involved in organic production, I occasionally witnessed some of my younger goats die because of intoxications, but since then it has never happened again. In addition, at home it is safe to eat our products.”

A few challenges that she faces include purchasing of seeds and climate variablity, though that cannot be controlled. But she still would like other farmers to consider organic production, more so if they have a guaranteed supply of seeds.

To read the full story: Organic Exchange Monthly Farm Bulletin

NEWS REPORT / ECOUTERRE

Saving Water with Every Pair of Jeans

There is much talk about how much water is used in producing a piece of clothing. A single T Shirt or a pair of jeans uses hundreds of gallons of water. Waking up to these facts, the news that leading jeanswear and accessories brand, Levis Strauss would be launching its range of Waterless jeans in January 2011 is like a breeze of fresh air. According to a report in Ecouterre, Levis claims that this H2O sipping collection uses an average of 28- 96 per cent less water.

During the production of a regular pair of jeans, the garment goes through 3-10 spins, using approximately 42 litres of water in the finishing process. The production of the new Waterless jeans involves only a single wet process. On top of that ozone processing is used for garment washing and stone wash is used to remove water.

“What’s different about the Waterless collection is that we’re still using the same materials and techniques to create finishes for our jeans but we’ve substantially reduced water’s role in the equation,” says Carl Chiara, director of brand concepts at Levi’s. “Sometimes, the way to achieve a more sustainable design is to rethink a traditional process and find a way to do it better.”

According to Levis, over 1.5 million pairs of Waterless jeans will be made available next spring which means there would be a combined savings of 16 million liters of water.

“We challenged ourselves to operate at the intersection of style and sustainability. These Waterless jeans have great styles and finishes, but are made with a lot less water,” said Erik Joule, Senior Vice President of Merchandising and Design of the Levi’s brand. “

The company also launched the “Care Tag for Our Planet” campaign, changing the product care tags in Levis jeans to include instructions about ways consumers can reduce the environmental impact of their clothes by washing less, washing in cold water, line drying and donating the clothes when no longer needed.

To read the full story: Levi’s Debuts Waterless Jeans That Use Up to 96% Less Water

NEWSLETTER / ORGANIC EXCHANGE

Organic Cotton Changing Lives in Turkey

Turkey is emerging as a country where organic cotton industry is flourishing and changing lives. For example, Sanko Textiles, based in Gaziantep is the largest organic cotton yarn and organic cotton fabric producer in the world. Sanko has been involved in organic cotton textiles for more than 10 years now. It has probably the most advanced and sophisticated spinning machines in the world!

Sanko has worked with world’s largest brands, hence promoting the importance of using organic cotton products and its benefits for the environment and human health. Sanko’s mission states “a brighter future takes every responsibility to improve the sustainability of the environment”. Their relationship with Mavideniz is bringing this vision to reality.

Turkey has seen a lot of development and investment in infrastructure, roads, city expansion and the encouragement of industry in the south west of Turkey in the last few years. According to Organic Exchange, life is certainly slower here but the enthusiasm for organic is inspiring.

Taking a break from Sanko, on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey there is a fertile region called Izmir. Cotton has been grown here for centuries and it is recognized as producing some of the finest quality cotton in the world. Izmir is home to the family owned textile company Egedeniz.

Egedeniz is the first certified organic textile company in Turkey and sells organic cotton at most stages of processing, as fiber, yarns, knitted and woven fabrics, and final garments.

All Egedeniz’s organic cotton production is certified by Control Union which ensures that all agricultural practices are in accordance with European Union Regulations. In addition, all processes right up to the end product are in accordance with the rules of the Sustainable Textile Standards of Control Union and GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards). Egedeniz follow the 3Q system through all stages; Social Quality, Product Quality and Service Quality.

To read the full story: Organic Exchange Monthly Farm Bulletin

NEWS REPORT / JUSTMEANS

Shared Talent India: Connecting Artisans Buyers, and Suppliers

India is one of the most diverse and culturally rich countries of the world producing a wide range of raw materials for textile industry. Be it cashmere or khadi or silk, India has been producing high quality textile material for domestic consumption and export for long.

According to a news report by Justmeans, more than 40% of fashion in the UK comes from India. And with this in mind, The Center for Sustainable Fashion (CSF) at London College of Fashion has launched Shared Talent India, to help designers and buyers source sustainable fabrics in India by connecting them directly with suppliers.

Shared Talent India is a partnership between the Defra led Sustainable Clothing Roadmap and the Indian Government under the UK: India Sustainable Development Dialogue. It aims to bring skilled artisans, suppliers and buyers together from all over the world. It also aims to be a comprehensive resource for skills; from weaving to embroidery and materials, from cotton to silk and cashmere.

The Shared Talent website can put buyers in touch with a supplier database that features organizations focused on developing a sustainable textile sector. Many of the suppliers themselves are innovative businesses that offer a forum for the development of traditional skills whilst combating environmental and social issues in the textile sector.

To be a supplier, one must meet several criteria when sourcing and supplying materials for fashion, whether production is on a local or global scale according to the project. Many designers from Marks & Spencer's, Accessorize etc have sourced from Shared Talent and this has increased the profile of the project.

The Shared Talent India website is a dedicated online space for discussing key issues relating to sustainable sourcing in the subcontinent. With the initiative, it can be hoped to get together more designers, suppliers and buyers in the future to increase the profile of sustainable fashion as well as to improve the lives of artisans.

Photo Courtesy: Shared Talent India

To read the full story: Ethical products: Shared Talent India, an enterprise in eco-fashion

NEWS REPORT / EUREKALERT

Insect Birth Control Strategy To Zap Cotton Pests

Using pests as part of an insect birth control program helps to get rid of them, UA researchers find. A new approach that combines the planting of pest-resistant cotton and releasing large numbers of sterile moths has virtually eliminated of the world's most destructive cotton pests from Arizona.

The novel control strategy, published in the November 7 advance online publication of the journal Nature Biotechnology, has allowed growers to maintain high cotton yields without spraying insecticides to control pink bollworm.

"We are running the pesticide treadmill in reverse," said Bruce Tabashnik, department head of entomology in the UA's College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. "Our new approach has resulted in huge environmental gains. We are using cutting-edge technology to create sustainable cotton farming practices."

The new approach is part of a multi-pronged team effort to eradicate pink bollworm from the southwestern US and Mexico, in which Tabashnik and his coauthors play a leading role.

Caterpillars of the pink bollworm (Pectinophora gossypiella) are one of the most detrimental pests to cotton production worldwide. First detected in the US in 1917, this invasive insect species wreaked havoc on Arizona's cotton growing industry, with larvae infesting as many as every other cotton boll (the fruit capsule containing the precious threads).
          
The eradication program staff reared large numbers of pink bollworms, sterilized them, and released the sterile moths into cotton fields where they could block reproduction of the wild insects.

"When a sterile moth mates with a fertile wild moth, the progeny won't be fertile," Tabashnik said. "The sterile insects soak up the reproductive potential of the wild population. If you have a high enough ratio of sterile to wild moths, you can drive the reproduction of the wild population to zero."

A limitation of the sterile release strategy is that extremely large numbers of sterile insects can be necessary to block reproduction of the wild population, according to Tabashnik. "It becomes a question of logistics: Can you deliver enough sterile insects to overwhelm the wild population?"

Since the eradication program began in Arizona in 2006, pink bollworm populations have declined dramatically. In 2009, only two pink bollworm larvae were found in 16,600 bolls of non-Bt cotton screened across the state. From 2005 to 2009, the pink bollworm infestation rate dropped by 99.9 percent. Along with the decline, insecticide sprays fell to historic lows. Whereas Arizona cotton growers lost $18 million per year to pink bollworm management between 1990 and 1995, that cost plummeted to an average of $172,000 per year between 2006 and 2009.

Compared with 1995, Arizona growers' insecticide use against all cotton pests, including those not killed by Bt cotton, decreased by 88 percent, saving $200 million between 1996 and 2009.

To test the idea of delaying resistance with sterile insect releases, the researchers conducted computer simulations and analyzed more than a decade of field data from before and after deployment of this strategy statewide in Arizona.

The eradication program and associated research is a partnership among the growers, their organizations, the USDA and the UA, including Peter Ellsworth of the UA's Cooperative Extension Service.

"This has been a team effort from the get-go, with the growers essentially one hundred percent on board," Tabashnik pointed out. "You can tell by the long list of authors -- this wouldn't have happened without teamwork."

Photo:  Pink bollworm moth poised on a cotton plant.
Photo: Bruce Tabashnik holding a petri dish with pink bollworm larvae.
Read Full Story: New insect birth control strategy zaps cotton pests

NEWS REPORT / CNN

A Ray of Hope for Women in Liberia

As Liberia recovers from the aftermath of the civil war, a few women find a ray of hope in a fair-trade clothing factory owned by a businessman called Chid Liberty.

Chid's family business was turned into a site of conflict, mass graves and executions during Liberia's fourteen-year civil war. The building was totally destroyed with even the metal electric wiring from the building stolen.

"There was talk that if you crossed the street and looked over, they would pull you in and execute you," Chid explained of his family building's role in the war to CNN.

Now that the war is over, and the country is struggling with poverty, Chid is on a mission to rebuild. He has started the Liberian Women's Sewing Project promoting women’s rights and helping them earn a livelihood i.e. a fair trade initiative. The factory is in the basement of the same building. These women are working in good conditions (the basement is air-conditioned) and are exporting t-shirts for major retailers in the United States.

The California-based organization Transfair USA has certified the factory as fair-trade, meaning it complies with 90 regulations, including child labor, forced labor, health and safety, working hours, wages.

Chid believes that the ethics are actually what make the factory stand out. He said to The World, a few months back "That’s actually our competitive advantage over a factory in China or a factory specifically that uses sweatshop labor, is that we say, listen, we have a supply chain you can actually boast about."

Chid is aware that he needs to make profit too. "It is 100 percent undoubtedly a business and I think our investors and clients will tell you the same thing," he told CNN.

"There isn't a time when we can say to our clients, we didn't get your t-shirts shipped on time, but hey, we're doing great work in Liberia so we want you to continue to give us your business - it won't happen.

"We're very much committed to our financial returns, meeting deadlines and operating under the same conditions that any other trading company or factory in any other part of the world would have to commit themselves to," he further said.

To read the full story: Bullet-ridden building in Liberia turns into fair-trade haven

PRESS RELEASE / VERTBAUDET

Vertbaudet Unveils Organic Cotton Collection

Children's fashion brand Vertbaudet has launched its ‘Organic Cotton Collection’ (featuring in its Autumn/Winter 2010-2011 catalogue). The new collection offers a range of fashionable but practical clothes for boys, girls, babies as well as maternity - all made from organic cotton and perfect for everyday wear, says a Press Release.

Considering the benefits of sustainable organic cotton production for the environment, the consumer and the cotton farmer, Vertbaudet have begun to expand their entire clothing range. The range now includes fashinable and comfortable clothes for infants and children of all ages.

 Founded over 40 years ago in France, Vertbaudet has garnered a reputation for putting “children first” and offering stylish, practical and innovative children's clothing collections. As specialists in their field, Vertbaudet are now recognised as a leading award-winning childrenswear and maternity wear brand, with high streets stores throughout Europe, as well as a prestigious home shopping network.

Read Full Press Release:

Photo Courtesy: Vertbaudet

NEWS REPORT / JUST-STYLE

Anvil: From Sustainable Cotton to Sustainable Business

Sustainability is a defining element of the future of the apparel industry, says Anthony Corsano, CEO of Anvil Knitwear in a report in Just-Style. Firms must find new ways to do business, and new ways to bring products to market that use recycled and sustainable materials, "because you can't possibly believe that the world can continue to consume...and that we'll have the ability to feed and clothe all these people with the resources on this planet."

"That's what takes this whole thing to the next level. While many companies say they're doing it because it's the right thing, they're doing it because they have to. It's the only way they'll be able to be in business ten, 20, 30, 50 years from now."

Anvil Knitwear has been ranked as the world’s sixth largest user of organic cotton and the largest domestic purchaser of US grown organic cotton by Organic Exchange. It is also going to be honoured as a 'top leader in sustainability' by the Foundation for Social Change and United Nations Office for Partnerships (UNOP). On November 18 in New York, The Foundation for Social Change and United Nations Office for Partnerships (UNOP) will recognize Anvil Knitwear as a Top Leader of Change in the sustainability category at the Global Conference for Social Change: Turning Social Responsibility Into Social Action, according to an Anvil press release.

Today, Anvil produces around 2m to 2.5m units a week - around 100m units a year - across both its own Anvil brand (which accounts for around 75% of volume) and private label goods made for major apparel names including Billabong and Disney Stores, reports Just-Style.

More than 20m units, or around one-fifth of output across both Anvil and private label lines, go out with some sustainability component, such as organic cotton, a percentage of organic cotton, recycled polyester, or transitional cotton, which is grown on farms making the switch to organic processes. And of the 25% of business that is private label, 66% or two out of every three shirts features a sustainability element.

Working more closely with suppliers has also been key to Anvil Knitwear's sustainability efforts. Not just yarn suppliers and thread suppliers, but "reaching up and down the chain."

Not only has this allowed changes to be introduced that are affordable, but it also ensures the business only works with suppliers "that we are aligned with philosophically. We have to be stringent about who we do business with."

Corsano says that unlike conventional cotton, which is secured through yarn spinners, he's in direct contact with the organic cotton farmers who supply Anvil, with whom he has established "long-term relationships, real partnerships."

This part of the business is not seeing the wild price swings currently enfolding the conventional cotton trade.

"We have an understanding [with the growers] that organic cotton should trade higher than conventional," he explains, "but we've taken out the ridiculous highs and lows, so we set prices for the year that kind-of track conventional."

"So there's tremendous stability today in comparison to the conventional, and we're able to use that to secure some programs and convince people that the organic aspect can bring more stability to the market."

Read the Full Story: Speaking with style: Anthony Corsano, CEO, Anvil Knitwear
Read the Press Release: Global Conference for Social Change Recognizes Anvil Knitwear as a Top Leader in Sustainability
Photo Credit: Anvil Knitwear

NEWS REPORT / WILLS LIFESTYLE INDIA FASHION WEEK

WIFW Ramp Stories Of An Organic Turn

The recently concluded Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) in New Delhi, India, had a fair spread of organic couture on the ramp. With the international market for eco fashion growing, Indian designers are also coming up with their green collections.

Each label carries a story that connects to a real change at the farmer level. While Samanth Chauhan's work has contributed to the revival of the Bhagalpur handloom silk industry, Joyjit of the label Ela (or goddess earth) made his debut at the WIFW exhibiting his organic line at the exhibition area. He told IANS that the idea of displaying his line at this business-to-business platform was to promote organic cotton so that farmers benefited out of it.

Designer Anita Dongre furthered her ongoing effort to support sustainable fashion with her 'Fair Trade organic cotton' collection. Her collection called 'Grassroot' included beautiful summer dresses which were comfortable and stylish at the same time, reports the Times of India.

Designer Wendell Rodericks’ collection ‘The Kunbi Tribe’ used cotton and silk dyed with colours indigenous to the eponymous Goan community. According to PTI, Rodericks says "Kunbi salaries are about fashion with compassion. The production of kunbi saris showcased in my collection are reviving a lost weaving technique and the clothes have not been made at the expense of nature."

Read stories on WIFW
Photo Courtesy: Anita Dongre Website
It’s time for ethical fashion:PTI/Hindustan Times
A lovely 'Grassroot' collection by Anita: Times of India
Organic cotton and silks get rave reviews: IANS/Times of India

NEWS REPORT / THE ECONOMIC TIMES

Indian Sustainable Farmers Go For Certification

Global certification agencies monitoring and certifying sustainable value chains are now focussing on Indian farmers, including cotton cultivators, as consumers become more conscious of the need for sourcing and supply chain integrity. A report in the Indian newspaper, The Economic Times, notes that global agencies involved in sustainable agriculture value chains such as Rainforest Alliance and Utzcertified are increasingly targetting growers in India.

Apart from a slew of textile brands, now FMCG brands such as Unilever and Nestle are looking at increasing procurement of sustainable plantation crops. Certification typically enables farmers get better prices since there is greater assurance on the integrity of the product

Mr Shatadru Chattopadhayay, MD of Utzcertified was quoted by the Economic Times stating, “The sustainable agriculture movement was earlier focussed more on customers but today we are equally concerned about the producers (farmers), notably in markets like China, India and Brazil.” Utzcertified is focussing on tea, sugarcane, cotton and textiles, besides coffee. It has certified as many as 2,000 soyabean farmers in Madhya Pradesh besides associating with sugarcane farmers who supply cane to EID Parry. Rainforest Alliance so far has certified 7,655 hectares.

PRESS RELEASE /FAIR TRADE MONTH

US Fair Trade celebrates National Fair Trade Awareness Month

Fair Trade USA, the leading third-party certifier of Fair Trade products in the United States, celebrated National Fair Trade Awareness Month in October with a multitude of news announcements.

Themed "Every Purchase Matters," Fair Trade Month unites Fair Trade USA's diverse corporate, nonprofit and individual supporters in hundreds of events, promotions and fund-raising activities across the United States, according to a Fair Trade USA Press Release. The goal is to generate awareness of Fair Trade and to empower consumers to use their day-to-day purchases to improve the lives of farming families and protect the environment. Additionally, Fair Trade USA's Board of Directors match every contribution made to the non-profit organization during October, up to $10,000.

"Once limited to coffee, U.S. consumers can now choose from more than 6,000 Fair Trade Certified products that span cosmetics, chocolate, spices, produce, grains, flowers, wine, spirits, and even fashion," said Paul Rice, President and CEO of Fair Trade USA. "The Fair Trade Certified label empowers consumers to make every purchase matter. It gives you the confidence that the high-quality products you love were sustainably produced and can have a positive impact on your own well being, on the people who produced them, and on the environment."

In 2009 alone, consumer purchases generated more than $14 million dollars for education, health care, clean water and other vital social services to support the more than 1.2 million farming families in the Fair Trade network around the world.
Fair Trade has generated significant momentum during 2010 in the United States. According to SPINS, sales of Fair Trade Certified™ products at grocery stores have grown by 30 percent this year i.e. to $140 million.

This was further proof that even in tough economic times, consumers care. In 2009, the BBMG Conscious Consumer Report stated that three-fourths of consumers (77 percent) believe they can make a difference by buying products from socially and environmentally responsible companies. The Report also says that two-thirds agreed that even in tough economic times it's important to buy products with social and environmental benefits (4 point scale). And over half (51 percent) agreed that they are willing to pay more.

PRESS RELEASE / TEXTILE EXCHANGE

‘Organic Exchange’ Becomes ‘Textile Exchange’ at 2010 Sustainable Textiles Conference

Organic Exchange (OE) will announce its expanded role as the organization driving development of the global sustainable textile industry under the new name, ‘Textile Exchange,’ at its annual conference in New York City on October 27-29, according to a press release. The 2010 Sustainable Textiles Conference will introduce the new Textile Exchange and will be once again an opportunity for companies to understand the trends in the textile industry.

The non-profit organization has helped drive global sales of organic cotton apparel and home textile products to an estimated $4.3 billion in 2009. The broadened focus positions the organization to serve as the non-profit convener, catalyst, and market-maker for the sustainable textile industry worldwide.

Textile Exchange (TE) will work to increase the global market for sustainable fibers, focusing initially on those that are bio-based, organic, and recycled while retaining a core focus on organic cotton, according to the release. It will also tackle pressing textile industry production concerns such as water and air emissions, energy use and its impact on climate change, waste production, and the widespread use of toxic inputs.

According to the Textile Exchange, "Change is vital given the huge and unsustainable economic, environmental, and social costs of current textile production methods and a projected global population of over nine billion by 2050, all needing clothing and other textiles. A focus on textile sustainability enables the entire value chain to find cost savings and production efficiencies and pass those savings on to customers while reducing the impact of textile production on people and the environment."

The change will be announced at Textile Exchange’s Global Sustainable Textiles Conference, with approximately 300 textile industry-related representatives from 29 countries already registered to attend. TE’s global conference includes representatives from the U.S. Federal Trade Commission, adidas, Anvil Knitwear, C&A, Disney, Eileen Fisher, Gap, H&M, Lenzing, LL Bean, Nike, Nordstrom, Patagonia, Puma, REI, Target, Walmart, and Williams-Sonoma. Topics to be covered include sustainable textile processing, eco-indexing, traceability and transparency, organic fiber production, and environmental footprinting.

A one day seminar ‘Organic in a Day’ will also be held for newcomers as well as brands and retailers looking to include organic cotton in their supply chain, covering everything from fiber sourcing to online tracking, processing, certification, and consumer messaging.

The conference will cover discussions on natural textiles (cotton, silk, wool, hemp and linen), basics of dyeing, ensuring the integrity of product claims etc. as well as environmental impact of textile manufacturing and issues with organic cotton.

It will also throw light on the influence of latest technological developments on sustainability and textile industry. According to the Organic Exchange newsletter, "With over seven billion people projected on the planet by 2011 and over nine billion predicted by 2050, our dependency on textiles and its current production methods comes at a huge and unsustainable economic, environmental, and social cost. Attending the 2010 OE Sustainable Textiles Conference not only provides the opportunity for an education about what is happening in the sustainable textile industry, it also offers the opportunity to connect with people committed to creating material change."

PRESS RELEASE / GREEN SEWN

From Saris To Scarves That Help Plant Trees

Sustainability and eco-friendly fashion is taking many routes to the market, all the way from changing practices in fields to raising consumer awareness. A second, and increasingly vibrant, trend is the emergence of recycling apparel and making them fashionably trend.

One such imaginative enterprise that is both recycling and creating green spaces is GreenSewn, a Ft. Lauderdale company that recycles old vintage saris into one-of-a-kind and limited-edition scarves and wraps. The company recently announced that they have planted over 12,000 trees as a result of sales to date.

GreenSewn plants 10 trees with the purchase of every scarf or wrap, in partnership with Trees for the Future, a non-profit group dedicated to restoring degraded lands in communities around the world through agroforestry education and the planting of beneficial trees.

Dan Shir, GreenSewn president and founder said, "we are proud and deeply grateful to all our customers and colleagues who supported us from startup to this point. Our customers are thoughtful, conscious consumers, and it is rewarding to to produce and sell a beautiful, sustainably made product that is not only recycled, but gives something back to the planet via our "buy one plant 10" tree program."

GreenSewn rescues beautiful old vintage silk saris that would otherwise be discarded and "reincarnates" them into authentic, gloriously colorful, limited edition eco-chic fashion statements. Each scarf or wrap contains elements from as many as 7 different saris, giving each piece has it's own genuine, special history and charm.

Production is done in small batches entirely by hand, hand twisted and sun dried after an all natural eco friendly cleansing bath in soap nuts. The end result is a vibrant "masala" blend of colors, pleasing to the eye and nourishing to the soul.

GreenSewn is an eco fashion design company that creates unique eco-chic one of a kind scarves by recycling old vintage saris. A sari is a long (usually 15 feet or more) garment worn by women in India. The recycled vintage sari scarves are colorful, intricately patterned, and sometimes have intricate gold "zari" work hand woven into the borders. GreenSewn says it collects the softest and prettiest old saris and lovingly recycles them into luxurious, authentic, ultra limited edition and gloriously colorful green fashion creations that are both sexy and sustainable.

GreenSewn was started by Dan Shir, a 25 year shoe industry veteran based in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. Wanting to produce something more green and meaningful, Dan and his longtime agent in India started GreenSewn. Production is done at our workshop near New Delhi, using locally sourced hand-selected vintage saris.

According to the website of GreenSewn, "Widespread destruction of our forests worldwide destroys habitats and is a major cause of global warming. We believe that sustainable agriculture and re-forestation of degraded lands are essential to the long term health of our planet. Trees For the Future is a non profit organization that since 1989 has promoted the practice of agro-forestry through their tree planting and education programs worldwide."

Press Release: "Born Again" Sari Eco-Fashion Helps Plant 12,000 Trees
Website: http://greensewn.com
Photo Courtesy: http://greensewn.com

BOOK  / ECO FASHION BY SASS BROWN

Eco Fashion At The Tipping Point

‘As with other social and political statements through commercial art, eco fashion is a reaction to social and ecological conditions’, writes Sass Brown in her new book “Eco Fashion”. Eco Fashion has got mixed responses so far. There are people who go gaga over it and those who do not. However, as the earth becomes hotter, people ought to do all they can. Brown also says “Very few products, let alone garments, fulfill the concept of sustainability in its entirety. But we all have to start somewhere.”

According to Brown, Eco-fashion has reached a tipping point, where the best of the best are simply the best in the industry. No matter how you slice it, something is obviously working—it has to. In the end, green design is good design, and fashion is just another product to be viewed through that lens.

The book talks about companies that are making the world realize that eco fashion is not boring. Gone are the days when eco fashion was all about organic cotton t-shirts or bohemian pants or plain clothes. However, people still think that eco friendly clothes are not fashionable. Now companies are producing desirable and well-designed apparel and accessories with a conscience. The book demonstrates the range of products available around the globe. It also explains the stories behind them and the communities they support, as well as showing how and where they make a difference.

Says Brown, "One of the strongest trends in fashion is the expression of ecological, social and community consciousness through for-profit fashion design corporations, which most recently have moved upscale from organic cotton T-shirts and hippy-ish drawstring pants to high fashion. There is now a wide range of companies offering well designed merchandise, from one-off art, recycled and redesigned clothing, organic and sustainable textiles and garment production, to a range of community and indigenous support cooperatives bridging the gap between traditional craft and high fashion."

Originally from London, England, Sass Brown is a full-time professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. She has worked with women's cooperatives in Latin America, most notably COOPA-ROCA in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

NEWS REPORT / EFW

Eco-Innovation Walks The Ramp At Vancouver

 Sustainable fashion seems to be running high on innovation as became evident at the Vancouver fashion show when designers showcased creative use of waste, eco shoes and sustainable harvesting practices in the Amazon forest.

The Vancouver Eco Fashion Week seeks to promote environmentally conscious trends in fashion. At the fashion week, loudest were the voices amplifying various aspects of sustainable fashion. WGSN’s Carly Stojsic explained how denim scraps can be used for housing insulation and made the point that the whole process of the life cycle needs to be considered when evaluating a product, reports eco fashion world.  Mark Trotzuk from Boardroom Eco Apparel echoed the point that sustainable textiles must look at all factors including raw material choice, impact of the process it was created by (water, energy), travel, after care, packaging, print paper usage, disposal, etc.

The discussions around the fashion week made a couple of telling points. Speakers such as Paul Raybin made the point that public commitments by large brands towards sustainability imposes a pressure on them to follow up while at the same time creating a precedent for other people and brands to follow. On the other hand, speakers such as Trotzuk highlighted the difference between the entire lifecycle of polyester (ideally recycled) and organic cotton discussing how in beginning stages cotton appears better, but in later stages the poly shows to be more sustainable as the fabric last longer and the garment care does not require hot water, dryer, or iron.

Read the full Story: Success For Eco Fashion Week Vancouver

NEWS REPORT / GUARDIAN

Ethical Fashion Takes The Ramp Around The World

The Ethical Fashion Show, devoted to sustainable fashion, is now in its seventh year and becoming increasingly mainstream with over a hundred brands represented reports Kate Carter for the Guardian.

The clothes on display range from the impressive but quirky - a jaw-dropping couture dress made from recycled film stock – to the more wearable and commercial, like 50s-style skirts in organic cotton and silk from French/Vietnamese brand All, and British company Terra Plana's recycled leather shoes.

This year the show has been taken over by Messe Frankfurt, the world's largest trade show organiser – a sign that despite the recession, ethical fashion is still a growth market.

Ethical fashion is increasingly moving into the limelight - Mintel estimates that despite the recession the market has more than quadrupled in the last five years, to around £175 million in the UK alone. Last week saw the first sustainable fashion show at London fashion week, as well as a vibrant and busy Estethica showcase. But the organisers of this show are determined to make Paris the capital of ethical fashion - as well as couture and pret-a-porter, says the report.

SO CRITICAL SO FASHION, taking place in Milan from the 27th september to the 2nd october, will bring together fashion and “ethical consumerism” to create a new lifestyle, says Fashion & Runway This event, organized by Terre di mezzo Eventi in cooperation with Isola della Moda, will star brand new fashion brands, independent designers, social responsible and environmental friendly enterprises, working to conjugate trends and innovation.

According to the report, there is an increasingly widespread attitude among consumers towards buying “critical” therefore making a choice not simply in terms of aesthetics, styles and trends, but also considering the ethical standards of dresses and accessories: kind of fabric, environmental impact of production and distribution, working conditions, sustainable innovation, local roots linked to ancient traditions, etc.

The project was the result of a conviction: the fashion needs of new values and new practices  must be consistent with contemporary environmental and social needs and therefore can not break free from the impositions of the twentieth century marketing and consumerism, say the So Critical, So Fashion Organizers.

Montreal’s ethical and equitable Fashion Salon Modethik, now in its fourth edition, joined Montreal Fashion Week  (MFW), on September 28, reports ecouterre. Over the past three seasons, Modethik has provided 60 socially and environmentally focused fashion brands with the opportunity to make their mark locally and internationally. This partnership between an NGO and a Fashion Week, is the first of its kind in North America, following in the footsteps of those developed in London and Paris in recent years.

During MFW, Modethik will feature a fashion exhibit and talk about ethical fashion. Following this will be a collaborative fashion show featuring nine sustainable designers, Cherry Bobin, Croquis, El Naturalista, Harricana, Myco Anna, Nicole Bridger, Rachel F., Ressac and Olga Tigirlas. A section will also be reserved for these ethical fashion designers in the MFW Showroom.

In London, the sustainable catwalk organized by the British Fashion Council organized for the London Fashion Week marked the first time room was made on the official fashion-week schedule to showcase ethical designers, says ecouterre. The catwalk featured established designers like Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney, as well as smaller but rising labels such as Junky Styling, People Tree, Henrietta Ludgate, and From Somewhere.

Read the Full Articles:

Sustainable chic hits capital of fashion in the Guardian

So Critical, So fashion in Milan in Fashion & Runway

MONTREAL EVENT: Ethical Fashion at Montreal Fashion Week in ecouterre